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Fix a demil barrel?
Weaponeer Forums : Barrel Information

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  lurch

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Posted: February 07 2010 at 1:59am | IP Logged Quote lurch

Demil barrels suck. We have to go out and try to find a used one for
ease of use and installation or find a brand new one and work it over
so it works and fits correctly. I have a different idea and need help to
figure out if it will work and more importantly be safe. I recently
bought a dpm parts kit and lightly tacked the receiver pieces back
together to get a feel for the gun before I finish it just in case I want
to modify anything first. As I stare at it I had a revelation. Why not
just tap the holes that were drilled into the barrel and put a bolt in it?
In my head it works. Take a tap, thread the hole, take a piece of
allthread or just a long bolt, put it into the hole until the outsides of
the bolt are lined up with the edge of the bore, mark where the top of
the barrel is on top of the bolt. Remove the bolt and radius the edge
so that when the bolt is put back in it lines up with the inside
diameter of the barrel. Then pull the bolt back out, slather it up with
locktite and put it back in. Cut the rest of the threads off flush with
the outside of the barrel, profile it to match the outside of the barrel
and then drill a couple holes in the threads between the bolt and
barrel and put in a couple plug welds to lock it in place. What do you
think?
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  blurrededge

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Posted: February 07 2010 at 2:45am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

SARCO used to have Browning Hi-Power barrels that had a pin installed through the chamber from top to bottom. They drilled a hole in the top of the chamber, dropped in a steel pin, and then peened over the top of the hole so it wouldn't come out. I bought one, drilled out the peening, and the pin came right out. I then tapped the hole, took a hardened set screw, contoured the bottom to match the chamber, screwed it in with loctite. I was using this to have a dedicated blank-firing barrel, so the chamber pressure was not somuch of an issue; which is especially good because I had to gring the barrel locks and top of the chamber flush with the top of the barrel so that it would be straight blow back, since blanks would be unable to move the barrel and slide back enough to unlock in the normal fashion.

Here's the blank barrel on top, and a standard barrel on the bottom:


Apparently the training barrel was also one of the ones that had a "two piece" chamber, you can see the seam on the ground down barrel as well as the set screw seam:


And here's the blank adapter... a 10mm set screw loctited into the barrel which was threaded at the muzzle:


I don't know if it would be safe to do it with live ammunition, but it would seem to be safer than just trying to weld the holes closed. You could just try it and fire a hundred rounds or so with a remote selonoid or a reeeeeally long string
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  gunguyr

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Posted: February 07 2010 at 10:41am | IP Logged Quote gunguyr

I personally would not try to repair the demilled barrels. Trying to fix a 9mm is one thing,, a 7.62X54R is another. My face isn't the greatest, but it's the only one I have...
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  lurch

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Posted: February 08 2010 at 2:42am | IP Logged Quote lurch

Good point. Over the years I've grown really attached to my face... All
puns aside I decided it's not worth me getting hurt over. I'm going to
order a used barrel tomorrow, I might tap and fill the holes and
torture test it by putting 4 mags through it. Its semi auto so it might
take a couple minutes but I think it would get pleanty hot from that.
My only issue with that is how would I know if there is a problem
under the surface? Maybe use jbweld instead of loctite?
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  Smokehouse69

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Posted: February 08 2010 at 11:48pm | IP Logged Quote Smokehouse69

I don't know that I'd try it but I have heard of one person who tapped and plugged the holes with loctite, then tig welded over the plugs. Since one of the holes actually went into the neck of the chamber he had to re-ream the chamber.
I know the only way I'd shoot something like that is with it in a lead sled, covered with sand bags and me standing behind something with a string in my hand tied to the trigger!
He claimed that it fired fine although the brass looked funny where it hit the plug in the chamber.
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  the

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Posted: February 15 2010 at 11:00am | IP Logged Quote the

This guy says he rebuilds maxims and fires thousands of rounds through them:

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=259622&postcoun t=27
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  lurch

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Posted: February 21 2010 at 2:08am | IP Logged Quote lurch

I read his post and it sounds promising but it still
creeps me out that there's no way of telling when
the plug may come loose or crack :( thanks for all
your help with this!
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  gundoctor

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Posted: February 21 2010 at 2:42am | IP Logged Quote gundoctor

Understand the holes are bore diameter or bigger. The bigger the hole the more pressure it will put on the patch--consider hydraulics--compared to the pin hole in the 9mm barrel you are talking exponentially more pressure on a 3/8 hole in a high powered rifle barrel..

If had to do it, and I would only do it if it was the only option in a "life or death" situation-- I would thread fine and catch as many threads as I could.   Make a plug to class one fit that is shaped to the bore diameter on the bottom. Turn it in until it is "just right". If you were really, really good you could probably even shape the rifling on the plug and lap it when you were done.   The chamber is easier (I think) because you have more meat to grab and can reream the chamber when you are done.   Then I would tig the plugs--and I don't mean for appearance. What scares me is that if it lets go the plug is going to be a projectile of significance. I would damn sure put it thru the paces with a string from behind a steel plate.

With all that risk and hours of work it seem more prudent to simply make a barrel.
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  orions_hammer

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Posted: February 21 2010 at 4:29pm | IP Logged Quote orions_hammer

gundoctor definitely has it right--there's an immense amount of pressure on the bore. The CIP pressure for 7.62x54R is 57,000 pounds per square inch. This means even a tiny quarter-inch hole will have three *thousand* pounds of force trying to squash the plug out!

Because of this pressure, smaller pin-type holes are better. The smaller the hole diameter, the lower the area and hence force on the repair, and the more the surrounding sound material can support it.
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