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Stemple 76/45 makeover
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  cal50

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Posted: September 03 2010 at 10:18pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

After many other projects + work I have picked back up where I left off on my Stemple 76/45 makeover. My stock Stemple was way less than ideal with a soft bolt and a trigger that made a caulking gun look great.

Some past mods-

http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22723&hig hlight=stemple


What I am working one now is a 9mm conversion using an original Suomi bolt (modded) with mags and drum conversion.

If someone can help me with some info I really need a dimension or distance from an original Suomi. What want to know what is the distance or length from the nose of a 9mm round in an original Suomi mag to the barrel breech face? I am setting up the Suomi mad adapters and trying to figure out the spacing for the 9mm Suomi mag in the grease gun mag well.

~Jeff
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Posted: September 04 2010 at 2:25pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

Just so others get to see the Stemple and see what nice work you did.

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  cal50

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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:07pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Well I finally finished my new hardened bolt for my stemple 76/45. I scrapped the first one by reading the wrong dimension I had written down.
Anyway my new bolt is O-1 tool steel hardened to Rc 54 "C". I tested my Suomi bolt and it was 54c so I duplicated it in hardness and dimensions.
My goal was to make a 9mm conversion. By using a turned down suomi bolt and a new .45 bolt with the same geometry I should have no problems switching bolts and ejectors for caliber conversion. Right now I am working on the trigger housing for the Suomi trigger group. I did not like how the original stemple housing mounted. I have to tig weld two threaded pads to the tube so I can screw attach the new housing to the gun. I fitted the housing tight so I want it to stay tight also. The new bolt weighs almost 100 grams more than the original stemple. This
should slow down the rate of fire also.I made an insert for my firing pin that I can replace if needed or damaged. I also machined my bolt to use a standard sten gun extractor.


Bolts-







Also if anyone wants some spare stemple parts I am selling the originals.

**************THESE PARTS ARE SOLD ***************
The bolt is complete with extractor and pin but I am missing the spring for the extractor.
The lower trigger group is complete. I did remove a pop rivet that held the magazine catch. The stock internals were reamed oversize and I turned new pins from tool steel that are retained with "C" clips. Also I tig welded the rear of the trigger guard to the housing.

$85 shipped to you

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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:08pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

I had some time to work on the housing.I did manage to mill everything without any problems.Starting with a solid block of steel it's a lot of machining. Combined with my new bolt and my calculation on how much to mill out so the sear engages I was eager to find out if I did it right.The suomi trigger group fits perfect inside the pocket I milled out. The sear engages right where I want it to be. I have to tig weld a front attachment block near the front of the mag well for a tapped hole and drill & tap the rear grip block for the rear attachment points. I want a ridged mount. Also I do not like the stock cocking lever. It allows the bolt to rotate too much. I will turn a new one and increase the diameter so it has less slop. So far I have replaced about everything I touched. I might make a quick change ejector so I can drop one in place for 9MM. Anyway some pics of the housing. I still have to mark the selector and some finish work. I







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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:08pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Machined and tig welded front attachment point for new trigger housing.
All that is left to do is drill & tap mounting holes in front tab and rear of trigger housing.Man I wish I had next week off of work. I am in the home stretch. I still want to make a new folding stock. It's on the list of "stuff" to do.




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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:09pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Another good day for playing with metal.The trigger housing I made and the Suomi trigger group was pinned together today. I used .250 diameter pins. Two in front and one in the rear. I will turn some and groove the ends for "C" clip retainers. Mounting holes were drilled and tapped. Housing and trigger group fit very solid with zero movement. I tig welded a swivel stud on the front left side of the gun. I also cleaned up some of the other welds. The last thing to do is weld and fit a stop for the suomi sear. If your going to use the suomi trigger group and set to fire semi auto the sear is released and without a stop it will pop up and the sear hook will not catch it to reset. Sounds more complicated that it is but really simple once you look at it. Selector was marked on both sides using a .125 ball end mill. When it's parked and gunkoted I will fill the dots in with the appropriate colors. I pulled the ejector off,I do not like it. New one that's interchangeable for 9mm will follow.







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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:10pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Weather was crappy so I cut metal. Made clevis type retaining pins for trigger group. Started fitting new grip. I had a FNFAL grip laying around so it was the donor. I should have used one without the selector clearance on the left side of the grip but I did not feel like waiting on a new one. I might just fill in the selector relief area anyway. I had to fill the internal void in the grip area then I milled it out to fit the new trigger housing / frame area. Since I drilled through the area the grip sits on I will have to tig weld an attachment point on the bottom of the receiver area and relieve the same area inside the grip so it fits.






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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:10pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Some more progress. I finished up milling a new ejector and support. I did not like how the only thing retaining the ejector was a tapped hole through the thin magazine well. My new piece adds some thickness for additional threads and support for the ejector. My stock ejector was crooked anyway and looked like crap. First I drilled the existing threads out of the original hole and turned a plug. I pressed the plug and welded it in  place.



Then I milled the plug flush-


The new part I made sitting in place-
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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:11pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Barrel Indexing and Magazine release~

The stock barrel is not indexed meaning it will rotate to a different spot each time inserted or if it loosens it will rotate. This is not the best set-up if you seek accuracy or repeatability. The solution for this is to mill a slot in the receiver and to install a "key" on the barrel shoulder. This was simple.

Barrel Indexing~






Magazine release~

The stock Stemple had a bolt head to slide for a magazine release. It worked but was far from ideal. Also the standard grease gun magazine needed an extra cut for it to be used in the Stemple. I made a new mag release that moves it up on the magazine well and can be operated with one finger without moving your hands. It also has a big plus of using stock / standard grease gun magazines.




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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:12pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Stock assembly day or at least the part that folds and locks. I really like the butler creek folding stocks. VERY solid lock up. The only problem is the factory stocks fold to the right and the Stemple needs to go to the left. I was really tempted to just buy one and invert it and cut the stock off and re-weld it together. Instead I made a new left hand folding / locking assembly. Nothing tricky here. I have to drill and tap a couple of set screw holes to lock it to the center pin. I will make a new pin instead of using the dowel pin. I have material to bend and weld the wire stock and I have an ACE recoil pad from an ACE stock for a donor. I will have to wait until I have more time to bend and weld it up. Basically I will weld the part you see to the end cap on the stemple. The stock will fold and lock securely open and closed. I also decided to scrap the aluminum weaver top rail. I have a steel rail I will cut down and weld to the top of the receiver. I have a Kobra red -dot sight coming with the quick release weaver base.






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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:13pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

I formed a wire stock assembly I had some 7/16 diameter drill rod that I bent and welded to a steel plate. The plate was fitted for a rubber butt pad from an ACE stock. I left the wire stock assembly long. I need to cut about an inch from the end and make an adapter to weld to my folding mechanism. Next up is to finish the steel weaver base and weld it to the top of the gun. I might make a set of new iron sights. I am torn between removing the front sight and only using the Kobra red dot sight mounted on the weaver rail or getting an ar15 adjustable rear sight that clamps to a weaver base and making a new front sight to match.



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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:14pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

After eating too much it was time to do some more work. Last item up was some type of weaver rail to mount my optical sights on. I decided on a Russian made Kobra red dot sight. I have one on an AK and it's a great sight. Fast and both eyes open if you want. I purchased one that fits a weaver style rail. I had some "blank" weaver rail stock from another project. Not a lot of work or magic except machining a radius on the base to fit the receiver tube of the stemple. The top of the weaver rail I cut some clearance slots. These are not needed with the Kobrs but if I want to put rings on it they will be needed. The base I drilled some holes to lighten it up. Now for the radius. It's not tricky at all if you use some math. I am not taking credit for the formula but it's handy to know-

The formula is SINE A = R/DR
A is the angle of the milling machine head
R is the radius of the end mill
DR is the desired radius to be cut.

For my purpose I used a 3/4 end mill,the diameter of the receiver tube is 1 3/8 diameter and the angle I needed to set the head was 33.055 Deg.

I made an excel workbook with the above formula.Instead of doing the math long hand I simply plug the diameter I need in with the diameter of the end mill I am using and it outputs the correct angle to offset the milling machine head. If anyone wants the excel sheet email me and I will send it to you. The biggest drag about offsetting the head is tramming it back in when finished. Anyway once you determine the angle simple offset the head and mill away. All that's left is for me to center it on the receiver and tig weld it in place.




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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:14pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Success!

I modded 8 Sten mags to test fire. The mod was TIG welding spacer / filler plates to equal the grease gun mag profile. I originally tried Suomi mags but needed to go back to a single feed mag. The Suomi mag in my Stemple really needed a feed or deflector ramp of sorts. The Sten being single feed is a straight shot to the barrel. Of the 8 mags 5 of them mag dumped 100%. I had 3 mags that would not feed or run. These 3 the feed lips were spread wide and let the rounds angle up too far and slip out of the feed lips before the end of the magazine. I adjusted the bad 3 mags and got them all running 100 %.

8 mags + 450 rounds later I am declaring victory.


My best bud did me a huge favor by whipping up a full length rail for the top of my gun. I can stick my Eotech and BUIS sights on it.




















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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:15pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Well a couple steps forward and one back. I finished welding the tower on my drum mag. Test rounds feed like sh*t through a goose. I also made one monster STen stick mag (50 rounds). Getting back to my machine gun project I test fit the top rail in place and noticed my barrel was REALLY canted to the right side. I indicated it in the lathe chuck and it was waving at me (way off). The only way to "fix" it was to machine a new barrel bushing and mount that I know is concentric. I cut the end off of mine and beat the remaining slug out of the receiver. Either it was machined wrong, pressed and welded into the receiver wrong or they warped the tube when welding / fitting. I machined mine to replace exactly what I removed and will TIG it in place today. I also full length welded all the exposed mating surfaced on the tube / mag well. Now I have strong welds and hopefully a straight mount when finished. I will drill 3 hole in the tube body and plug weld closed and all around the mount circumference.







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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:16pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Much better now.....







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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:17pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Bolt in and out of gun-

Its a Suomi bolt lightly modded. I turned the diameter to fit the Stemple tube. I welded in a filler piece where the Suomi bolt was slotted on top. Relocated and drilled new cocking handle hole. Cut new sear surface and moved it back from the original. I also added a dual recoil spring.











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Posted: April 13 2016 at 7:20pm | IP Logged Quote cal50

Test fire in 9MM conversion


http://tinyurl.com/gq8eone



Cant figure out the embed code.......

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