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Bren Semi Mods
Weaponeer Forums : BREN, ZB26, ZB30, ZB39

Posted in BREN, ZB26, ZB30, ZB39
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  weaponeer

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Posted: September 07 2010 at 5:02pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

These photos document some of the modifications done to the BREN based on the Bren Semi Auto Parts people purchased here.

Based on these photos you should have a better understanding of what  some of the parts in the kit are for and where they go.

Based on that you should be able to figure out how the conversion works.

Compare the photos below with your kit.

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  weaponeer

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Posted: September 07 2010 at 5:04pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

Modification to the butt stock for the striker spring and tube.

 

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  midmichigun

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Posted: September 07 2010 at 8:54pm | IP Logged Quote midmichigun

Boss,

Thanks for the photos. I just got mine in today, and was wondering how everything goes together!

BTW, the parts exhibit excellent "finish"... Can't speak to the "fit", since I haven't put them in yet!

Now if I could figure out that darn block bar location!

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  steven matthews

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Posted: September 08 2010 at 1:35am | IP Logged Quote steven matthews

How much wood was left above the tube?. I tried this while building/designing  my SGN project/article and on my stock the tube would have poked through the top of the butt stock or been so close I was worried about cracking under use. I tried angling the tube and using as small of tube as possible but I still thought it would be problematic.  I even ground a flat on top of the buffer spring pocket for extra space but still didnt have room.I tried to make this work for several hours before I decided to go back to the drawing board.  Thats why I went with the telescoping buffer tube and spring set up. Glad to see someone got this method to work but cant for the life of me figure out how you got the parts to fit without poking out through the top of the buttstock. Are there differnt stocks than what I had on my MK2 kit? I thought this pictured method would be the easiest but I just couldnt get the stuff to fit in the allotted space. Thats one of the great things about weaponeer, there are alot of minds working on the same problems and they are willing to share the solutions with other members ! Even thoug I couldnt get it to work for me I have to congradulate you on figuring it out.  Steve Matthews- SGN Hobby Gunsmithing Writer.
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  weaponeer

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Posted: September 08 2010 at 12:22pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

steven matthews wrote:
How much wood was left above the tube?. I tried this while building/designing  my SGN project/article and on my stock the tube would have poked through the top of the butt stock or been so close I was worried about cracking under use. I tried angling the tube and using as small of tube as possible but I still thought it would be problematic.  I even ground a flat on top of the buffer spring pocket for extra space but still didnt have room.I tried to make this work for several hours before I decided to go back to the drawing board.  Thats why I went with the telescoping buffer tube and spring set up. Glad to see someone got this method to work but cant for the life of me figure out how you got the parts to fit without poking out through the top of the buttstock. Are there differnt stocks than what I had on my MK2 kit? I thought this pictured method would be the easiest but I just couldnt get the stuff to fit in the allotted space. Thats one of the great things about weaponeer, there are alot of minds working on the same problems and they are willing to share the solutions with other members ! Even thoug I couldnt get it to work for me I have to congradulate you on figuring it out.  Steve Matthews- SGN Hobby Gunsmithing Writer.

Steve,

This was the method thats used by Wise Lite Arms on all the Semi Brens that were on the market and sold through Century.  It's a close fit and it's at a slight angle and not directly on top.

As for stocks.  They made MKI, MKII, MKIII as the most common in the MK series. actually many of the parts kits were the MKIII/IV Brens with the later stock.

This may not be the easiest method, but it was the most reliable after testing due to the potential of binding of the spring or the striker. for a commercial weapon the design had to work every time and be relible or the customers freak..  lol

I know of about 5 meathod's to convert the Bren and they all can work. some are easier than others to build but they all should work good enough to keep these old weapons on the range.

I'm glade you posted such a good design to get interest back into the Brens and Bren Kits.  I keep hearing people say how unbuildable they are and how hard they are, but you broke it down and proved it could be done.  Thats what I like about your Articles.

It's great seeing so many ideas to make the same thing work..

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  steven matthews

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Posted: September 10 2010 at 9:06pm | IP Logged Quote steven matthews

Thanks for the reply. I guess I never thought of setting the tube offset from the centerline. This would give just enough more room that the tube probably wouldnt go through the top of the stock. On my stock the issue was were the stock dipped down about 4" back from the front. On my design I used a seperate striker spring over a telescoping tube that holds the main buffer spring. That set up hasnt been shown yet in my article series. They showed the telescoping buffer tube and interior springs in the last installment but the installation of the striker spring wil be done in a later article. Any one considering doing a BREN project ( my design or any others) should be aware that the only real big issue is the receiver reconstruction , it has to be right to get correct headspace.You have to reconstruct the torched out sections to witin a few thousandths of the original length. The other parts are very easy to make. The BREN guns can be reconstructed in semi format if one takes thier time and pays attention to the small details. Although I had to do design work and photo work for the article that added alot of time to the project I figure a reasonably skilled person could do a BREN semi project from a parts kit  in about 100hrs. This may seem like alot of hours but it sure is better than spending $2500 for a built semi BREN. I had less than $400 in my BREN project.  Steve Matthews
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  weaponeer

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Posted: September 10 2010 at 9:13pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

steven matthews wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I guess I never thought of setting the tube offset from the centerline. This would give just enough more room that the tube probably wouldnt go through the top of the stock. On my stock the issue was were the stock dipped down about 4" back from the front. On my design I used a seperate striker spring over a telescoping tube that holds the main buffer spring. That set up hasnt been shown yet in my article series. They showed the telescoping buffer tube and interior springs in the last installment but the installation of the striker spring wil be done in a later article. Any one considering doing a BREN project ( my design or any others) should be aware that the only real big issue is the receiver reconstruction , it has to be right to get correct headspace.You have to reconstruct the torched out sections to witin a few thousandths of the original length. The other parts are very easy to make. The BREN guns can be reconstructed in semi format if one takes thier time and pays attention to the small details. Although I had to do design work and photo work for the article that added alot of time to the project I figure a reasonably skilled person could do a BREN semi project from a parts kit  in about 100hrs. This may seem like alot of hours but it sure is better than spending $2500 for a built semi BREN. I had less than $400 in my BREN project.  Steve Matthews

there is not a lot of room for the tube, so the hole does not to be right on the money. I look forward to seeing your setup and it would be much easier for people to do.

did you buy the parts kit from me or someplace else (basically did you use the old clean demil or the current demils that take more work to reconstruct)

keep up the good work... just wish you could post more...  you have a lot of good ideas.

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  weaponeer

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Posted: September 10 2010 at 9:15pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

midmichigun wrote:

Boss,

Thanks for the photos. I just got mine in today, and was wondering how everything goes together!

BTW, the parts exhibit excellent "finish"... Can't speak to the "fit", since I haven't put them in yet!

Now if I could figure out that darn block bar location!

we will be posting more information next week

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  Cav Trooper

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Posted: February 01 2011 at 1:33pm | IP Logged Quote Cav Trooper

I just purchase the semi kit from Weaponeer and I really like the picture tutorial but I have a couple of maybe dump questions. I have look at the Project Guns site and the various build descriptions here and I can not find or figure out if anything is done to the fire control system and lower receiver other than the denial stuff and the auto select block out. Is the sear still supposed to have the lower hook ground off? Also, the spring guide tube supplied with the kit has no end cap, does the tube need to be welded closed on the end and lastly, which way to the spring guide/rivet fit into the tube? Logic tells me that the head of the rivet would rest in the back side of the striker block pocket.

Thanks

Cav Trooper

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  kozzy

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Posted: April 07 2011 at 5:59pm | IP Logged Quote kozzy

Any new updates or photos on this? I got my parts today and do not want to screw things up
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  garthok

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Posted: June 18 2013 at 8:27pm | IP Logged Quote garthok

Here's a silly question, how would one go about drilling the hole through the metal part. on a good day I have trouble drilling straight holes. How would you set it up on a drill press?
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  northumbrian

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Posted: June 19 2013 at 3:20am | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

Firstly, What drill press do you have, and I mean what spindle taper, the make is not important.

If it has either #2 or #3 Morse tapers then you could get a Morse taper drill, which will fit in place of the drill chuck. These are better for important holes than jobber drill bits.

Now the drilling, and this is the most important part.

NEVER EVER be in a hurry. always take your time.

1. Measure it & mark it out, using marking blue (a blue sharpie is fine), scribe the lines for the point which you are going to drill.
2. With a Drill punch, punch the dot at the point you just marked. Take your time with this, and get it right first time.
3. Securely clamp the part on the drill table, and make sure it is perfectly square and in line with the drill spindle.
4. Using a centre drill or a spot drill, lightly spot the point you've just punched, this will give the drill something to start with rather than wondering all over the place and ultimately drilling the hole in the wrong place.
5. Place Morse taper drill bit in the spindle, very important get the spindle speed right for the diameter of the drill bit.
6. start to drill, feed the drill very slowly as slowly as you can, feed a little and then back off a little. ie. feed 1/16" and back off 1/32", feed 1/16 etc. etc.
If you just try to force the drill bit through it will wonder, by feeding a little then backing off a little, you can keep this to a minimum.

The important thing to remember is take your time.
Drilling and boring are the most important engineering operations and are constantly understated, the better the hole you make the better the job you will make.

I hope this has helped, if you want any more advice or help on machining just ask

Northumbrian
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