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BlurredEdge PPs-43 9mm Carbine Build
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  blurrededge

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Posted: February 21 2011 at 2:35pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

I have an Eastern Front reenactment coming up in the spring, so it's time to get one of these made. Stand-by for photo's and info of what I got done over the weekend...

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Posted: February 21 2011 at 3:17pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

looking forward to it
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Posted: February 21 2011 at 4:59pm | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

can't leave us hanging like that!
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Posted: February 22 2011 at 9:35am | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

trickyrick wrote:
can't leave us hanging like that!

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Posted: February 22 2011 at 2:16pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

We'll start with reviewing the parts pieces I have to work with. I have two kits, one with more meat on the pieces than the other. Here's the barrel shrouds:









The stocks:




The rear sights:




better pic of the above


and my repair section from MGS:


I decided to start with the front end that had more to it. I'd need to get the bracket out though, so I started taking out the rivets:


Gotta grind the heads off

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Posted: February 22 2011 at 2:31pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Ground flush:





Then I drilled the rivets and punched them out





and it was at this time that I realized that the bracket is also spot welded in place about 3 or 4 times on each side... So I put that one back in the box, and grabbed the other front end to continue the process.

Here the heads have been ground and are center punched for drilling.



I pushed too hard at the end of the second rivet and my drill bit snaped as it crashed into the other side . Atleast the rivets are out



and the little piece of bracket pulled out with a twist from some pliers.



Time to figure out where to cut the repair section so the front end matched correctly. I was able to use my other front end to get a better idea of where to center things. I scribed the last vent hole and the bracket rivet hole onto the repair section from the longer front end, and then scribed where to make the cut from the new front end after it was lined up with the marks.



Here's the port side cut through with the dremmel



I finished the cut on the other side with a hacksaw, leaving alittle extra room



and after alot of trimming with the belt sander alittle at a time, and alot of careful checking, the pieces match up straight and are ready to weld


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Posted: February 22 2011 at 2:55pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

I found a piece of random round stock, and spun it down to 1.13" to use as an alignment guide for the inside of the receiver. I don't know what kind of steel it is, as it's magnetic, but I hated working with it on the lathe... there were no chips coming off, just really long razorwires. The old man did a spark test on the grinder and said "well, that's about as mild a steel as you can get... by lookin at watcha turned off the thing, it probably has alot of lead in".

An any case, it works for the intended purpose. Before I move on, I forgot to include these pics earlier of figuring out what goes where with the front, rear, and repair section









Here's the front end and repair section clamped together for welding with the alignment mandrel inside





I ground a "V" on both sides prettymuch down to the bottom of the pieces so I can get a really good join with my welds.

Braced for the first spot


ZAP


Now one for each side to hold the sections together

ZAP

ZAP

The above photo was taken after I wire wheeled the welds and added a strip of copper flashing to the inside since I noticed some areas with a hairline of daylight coming through. Nothing to worry about if it's backed though.

Better shot of the copper and mandrel



Then I buzzed the rest of it together, doing alittle on one side, and then switching to the other side to minimize any warping.

here it is, welded and ready to get cleaned up






The inside


you can see where the copper got burned to the weld near the thin spots by the vent holes



Then I checked my work against the other front section and discovered...


that I ended up short by about 1/8" or so. Not really a big deal. It just means the trunion, and bracket will need to be alittle shorter, and if I were using an original barrel, it would stick further into the muzzle break area.

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Posted: February 22 2011 at 2:57pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

This is only about half of what I have, but it's time to get to work. More to come either tonight, or tomorrow morning.

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Posted: February 23 2011 at 12:11am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Alright back to it.

Got the shroud welds ground down, filed, and then blended on the belt sander. Can't even tell it's welded aside from the vent holes and rivet holes that need to be fixed alittle






Time to do the rear end now. I tried to trim the rear section so that the cut would be straight, but ended up taking off alittle toomuch, and would have to weld right next to the rear side brackets. Live and learn...



and the repair section cut



used to belt sander again to fine tune the pieces to align as close as possible, and then aligned the pieces with my round stock again. Here it is clamped for welding. The copper wanted to curl inward, so I braced it against the walls with the small piece of bracket I removed from the front end.



Forgot to take during pics, but it's essentially the same as doing the front, so here's the stock all welded to the receiver







Ground the welds and blended them on the belt sander. I couldn't get it as smooth because of the stock side brackets, but it's pretty good. Here's the receiver



Here's the receiver on the lower. From the pivot pin hole back, it lines up perfectly! It's times like this that make me realize I'm so good I amaze myself



Time to get a rear sight put on. I took the one with less receiver still attaced to it, and started trimming it



To get the height close to correct I would need to grind the bottom of the rivets to a concave shape, as well as the hump it's riveted to.





Once it fit the receiver correctly, I had to locate it's propper position by refferencing google image search. Centered on the folded stock buttplate loop thingy. Conveniently, this is also right at the end of the blocking hump pressed into the receiver

Where it needs to be


Make sure it's not Backwards before you weld! (numbers stamped into aperature should face the shooter)

I couldn't get any of the clamps to hold it where I wanted without tipping or cocking it, so I decided to line it up as best I could between the stock folder button and the ears of the front sight protectors... after putting a large cylindrical Magnet inside the receiver. It didn't hold as strong as I was hoping, but enough to keep it from shifting while I set up to zap it in place.



I was concentrating somuch on keeping everything aligned, and chasing the weld warpage to get the sight centered again, that I forgot to take pics until after I started grinding the welds down. But here it is after the initial grinding





and after blending the welds with the sanding drums





Still some small spots to fix before I blue the receiver, but good enough for now.

Now to drill the shroud vent hole, and the ejection port.
I used the other front end to figure out where the hole should be. Turns out the top holes are almost exactly 9/16", and the ejection port holes are about 7/8". I looked through the bin of "over 1/2" drills" and there were no 9/16" drills... closest I could find was 37/64"... and there were 3 to choose from (!?).

Here's the other front end next to my receiver



I measured the spacing between the holes, and then added half the hole diameter and marked where to drill.



I also refferenced google image search again, and approximated the location of the ejection port based on photo's of originals. Top of the port on the receiver centerline, and the bottom of the port at a 90* angle to it from the imaginary center of the receiver cross section (or you can use the shroud vent holes to figure it out). Front most point of the ejection port in line with the very top of the mag well, and same with the rear most point, so that it just clears the folded stock.

example:

here's my port marked and center punched for drilling



and another shot of both



my little piece of metal used to align the receiver sections came in handy to brace the receiver in the vice without crushing it. Lining up to drill the vent hole



the hole drilled, and the bit that did it (forgot to get pics of the center drilled pilot hole, but you get the idea)



now for the ejection port. because my internal mandrel is round, it made holding the receiver at an angle in the vice fairly easy.

lining up for the port



both center drilled



now to open them up.



I noticed that the drill had a small amount of wandering wobble to it. I attribute this to the 9" length, and the end that at some point was reduced in diameter on a lathe from whatever it was (probably close to 7/8"), down to just under 1/2" so that it would fit a standard drill chuck. I eyeball-adjusted for the phenomenon, and made the cuts.



Once the holes were drilled, and cut out the section between with a dremmel, and ground everything to a nice blended oval port. After cleaning it up on the wire wheel, here's how it looks



Again, sometimes I amaze even myself
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Posted: February 23 2011 at 12:39am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

I don't have a bracket and trunnion kit, and they would be too long for my slightly short receiver anyway, so I need to make them. I decided to try the bracket first. The originals are .075" thick steel like the receiver... best I could find was some .056" sheet, but the metal is Tough, it must be hardened, as it ate the brand new jigsaw blade. I figured out the dimensions I would need, and added alittle figuring I could trim to fit. Then I scribed the lines on the sheet and got ready to cut it out



crappy flashed out pic of the piece cut out. In the top right you can see what's left of the blade



I accounted for the thickness of the metal, and determined where I would need to bend the sides so that the finished dimensions would match the inside of the receiver. The parallel bar on the bench is almost the right size



One trick for adding a few thousandths to a piece like this is to wrap tape around it. I used two layers of masking tape, and chucked it in the vice



now to bend that sucker. The mini sladge was necessary, and the large ballpeen didn't seem to be doing a whole lot. Again, this is some Tough Stuff!





Finally got it bent over



Now to do the other side, I'll have to add a spacer bar so the bent leg fits



Bent.



After it was bent, I took it over to the bridgeport vice and used that to squeeze the crap out if it in a variety of ways to really sharpen the bends. Here it is after that



and it's fit in the receiver



Next I decided to get my basic trunnion started. I had a piece of 4130 pre-hard round laying around, so I started spinning that down to the right size



Once it was close enough, I cut the piece I needed off



After it was cleaned up alittle, sitting next to the bracket



That's all I have done sofar... I might buy a trunnion and bracket anyway, so that I will have something to refference for the fit, and I can use them when I build up the second parts kit

For now, I'll leave you with this teaser pic


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Posted: February 23 2011 at 12:59am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

looks great. is this a pistol pr carbine build?
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Posted: February 23 2011 at 7:57am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Details, details...

I haven't really decided yet, because there's a catch. If I build it as a carbine, I have to pin or weld the stock open because I would have 3 "Evil Features" in this state (pistol grip and detatchable magazine I can't really change). If I build it as a pistol, it will have to stay at my buddy's place in New Hampshire, and he will bring it to events for me, because it would be an illegal "Assault" pistol in this state .

So, it will probably end up as a carbine, and possibly even in 9mm instead of 7.62x25, but with the option of the barrel being able to be changed. I will probably do the second kit as a pistol, and only get to see it at events, or when I go to NH, but we shall see.

I haven't even decided if I'm going to try doing hammer fired or striker fired yet... but at the moment I'm leading toward a striker design using a paintball style semi-only trigger and sear arrangement.
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Posted: February 23 2011 at 8:04am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Here's a pic that I'm hijacking from... You, Rick

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Posted: February 23 2011 at 8:32am | IP Logged Quote midmichigun

WOW.... amazing build! I love it!

You should have this made as a "sticky"! Good craftsmanship, clear photos....

Now I wanna get one too!

Maybe we won't make the house payment this month!! LOL! Thanks for sharing!

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Posted: February 24 2011 at 12:09am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

922r review for current plan:

Parts List

PPs-43

RECEIVERS

U.S.

BARRELS

U.S.

BARREL EXTENSIONS

N/A

TRUNNIONS

U.S.

MUZZLE ATTACHMENTS

N/A

BOLTS

Import

BOLT CARRIERS

N/A

OPERATING RODS

N/A

GAS PISTONS

N/A

TRIGGER HOUSINGS

Import

TRIGGERS

Import

HAMMERS

N/A

SEARS

U.S.

DISCONNECTORS

U.S.

BUTTSTOCKS

Import

HANDGUARDS

N/A

PISTOL GRIPS

Import

MAGAZINE BODIES

Import

MAGAZINE FOLLOWERS

Import

MAGAZINE FLOORPLATES

Import

Total Import Parts Count

8


Anything seem incorrect to anyone?

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Posted: February 24 2011 at 12:43am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

After looking over These Blueprints I think I have enough to go on to get the receiver finished soon. Only thing I still have to figure out is the barrel, and I will probably just use an old 9mm barrel blank I have, and weld an extension to the front. It'll be a stupid looking ant-eater like my Sten Mk II, but it will be easier to photoshop and make look correct for unit photo's at events.
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Posted: March 02 2011 at 8:37am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Got more work done on the Trunnion and bracket this weekend.

Got the trunnion drilled out for the barrel, took my time hogging out the hole using plenty of oil as went.





Had to test fit it with the barrel to make sure I was mostly done with the hole.



Next I decided to try and add the feed ramp on the front; I figured it would be easier to get it to start concentric and even with the entire face intact. The ramp at the mouth of my original barrel chamber measured about 65*, so I set the tool holder table for that angle. Since I'm going with 9mm instead of 7.62x25, and I'm using an unrimmed barrel, I had to account for that difference, and realize I will probably have to fine tune the feed ramp once it's together.





started turning the ramp...



just about done



Next up was cutting off an entire side except for the bracket hump (or whatever you want to call it). I started by cutting down the sides, and then trimming the front and back to match

 









Now to flip it over and recess the top of the breach face so the bolt can seat propperly.





Now that I had the top and bottom decided, I could drill the rivet hole for the top, and the barrel pin hole.

Ready to start the rivet hole...





Once I drilled the hole all the way through, I flipped it over and enlarged the bottom hole so the head of the rivet would fit through to the inside of the top, then countersunk and bottom drilled the recessed hole enough for the rivet head to clear the barrel.







Now to drill the barrel pin hole. Based off my original barrel, the pin hole was drilled at a 75* angle instead of 90* or dead 0*. So, I angled the trunnion to match, tapped the barrel in place, and used a vice grip on the muzzle to keep it from rotating or pulling through when drilling.













Here's the pin hole through the barrel side (you don't get to see the other side where I learned to make sure the barrel wouldn't rotate or pull from the drill  



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Posted: March 02 2011 at 10:16am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

looking great!
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Posted: March 02 2011 at 10:33am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Next up is the bracket for the trunnion.

I used the blueprints for the two as a guide, but made changes to suit my needs.

After I located the rectangular hole placement for the trunnion hump, I started to drill out the bulk of it. I was going to use the dremmel, but was getting low on cut-off disks.

Here the bracket is center punched and getting ready to drill the holes



now to drill them out larger. My alignment was alittle off, so the holes crossed the forward line just a hair, but I'm doing it all by eyeball, so not a big deal. I'll just trim the trunnion length if necessary.





finished roughing out the hole with a small grinding stone.



and filed it with needle files the rest of the way until the trunnion fit nice.



I may file/belt sand down that lip on the front of the bracket if necessary, or maybe just continue the feed ramp into it if the rest is not in the way.



I found some rivets in my fathers stuff that he rescued from the dumpster when the school he taught at cleared out the old metal shop / wood shop / mechanics garage stuff. The shaft seemed to be about the right size, but the heads were too big and bulbous compared to the ones I demilled. So, I ground a HSS cutter to fix the heads.

Here's the original rivets I drilled out, one of the unmolested rivets I found, and one of the rivets I already fixed the head on.



Here's the cutter I made. It took a few practice turns to get the tool angle right.



getting ready to turn down the head



starting to turn it down. Because it's very difficult to get my toolholder to center exactly on the piece without shimming, it leaves a nub in the center of the rivet head.







here's the nub that's left. The rest of the head looks good though.



Quickest way to fix it is to file it down, which only takes a few strokes.



here's the (mostly) finished rivet. I put it back in after I noticed the swirl and used a fine file to clean it up.



and here's the batch. I'll still need to cut the shafts to the propper length once it's time to install the bracket again. I left one of the rivets with the fat head to rivet the trunnion to the receiver on top.



Anybody got a good formula for how much shaft should be sticking out for a propper rivet head to be formed? I may just have to look at the AK rivets and try to guesstimate based off those...
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Posted: March 02 2011 at 10:54am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

A quick internet search reveals that 1.5 times the diameter of the shaft should protrude for a propperly set  head.
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