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Revolver Shotgun
Weaponeer Forums : DIY Projects

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  Tanner Frisby

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Joined: December 16 2011
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Posted: December 26 2011 at 10:21pm | IP Logged Quote Tanner Frisby

Hello everybody,
I would like to introduce myself a little. My name is Tanner Frisby. I have always had a passion for mechanical engineering. I took a blacksmith apprenticeship to learn metal craft (my master was a friend of my father). My most sophisticated piece of equipment is my mig/fcaw welding unit, followed by angle grinder, drill press, Dremel and file set. As for an age, I am a few years shy of legally being able to buy ammo/firearms.

Now onto my "first" build:

Instead of individually uploading every image here, I have opted to upload them to Image Shack. I will post a picture by picture description here, though. Sorry for any inconveniences, but I found this easier than uploading 50+ images here.

OPEN THIS IN A SEPARATE WINDOW SO BOTH THE IMAGES AND DESCRIPTIONS CAN BE VIEWED, CLICK "OLDEST" IN THE UPPER CENTER OF THE PAGE TO LET THE CAPTIONS MAKE SENSE.

Progress pics Gallery

6 cylinders, (from black iron Lowes pipe) I chose 6 cylinders because 7 circles can pack geometrically.

DOM insert, .05" too small, wrapped with painters tape to fit snugly, tape burnt away after welded.

gaps filled in with weld, 12 ga. shell inserted.

alignment holes drilled.

I can't drill holes larger than .5" in metal, so, DOM slice welded to .5" sheet...

and filled in with weld.

attached to black iron pipe coupling.

Tacked

filled with weld, removing sl*g (seems this is a bad word, meant the spheres of weld that spray everywhere when welding) from threading, should have used tape or silicon spray.

assembly

Use cut outs (my CAD program prints 1:1, so my designs can be printed and cut out).

more work on frame.

same tack and fill method.

frame roughly complete.

drill many holes.

expand holes.

file with half round file.

weld in to hold 4 of the 6 rounds in place (leaves 2 loading and unloading ports).

pump stop.

pump stop in place, pump on DOM rod.

weld pump stop end cap.

assembly.

expand pump up to barrel.

weld on top of pump.

more welding (covered with tape this time).

alignment pins plate measuring.

placing pins.

placing pins.

pins made from worn Dremel bits.

pins attached to alignment plate.

assemblage, showing cylinder to barrel alignment.

alignment plate attached to pump, needs access to primer.

alignment plate cut to allow access to primer.

assembly.

end of day picture.

trigger group. x8

housing.

adjustments.

trigger group welded to frame.

first spent primer (round emptied, just primer) x3

END

Not included: I was up against a strict deadline to make this before Christmas (8.5 day deadline) so I had to stop taking progress pictures.

Converting a Red Rider butt stock to be accepted.

welding plates to the trigger group to hold the butt stock.

firing.

Big smile.

Finished product pictures.

END

Hopefully I can include some of these unincluded pictures soon.

Thanks,
Tanner Frisby


p.s. Now why would I put such a deadline on myself as 10 days (1.5 days to design, 8.5 days to build)? Well, the deadline was initially 2 months until I spent Christmas at a ranch where I would get to fire my arm off. My initial "pepper box 12 ga" got to heavy to hold, so it turned into a cannon. With 1.5 months left, I spent almost all of it scratch building a .22lr semi-auto rifle. Live round went off inside the house when a feed misfed and the bolt crushed the rim. Good news: caught it on video, Bad news: parents said that was the end of that project. Ten days remained.

Click here for Cannon and Rifle pics.
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  Tanner Frisby

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Posted: December 28 2011 at 10:26pm | IP Logged Quote Tanner Frisby



This is the finished product.
I chose to make this a new post as I am not a fan of "edit" (having to repress "enter" for every "<br>" and then the "waiting approval", just easier to make a second post).
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  weaponeer

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Posted: December 29 2011 at 8:36pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

I like that....  very unique in design.
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  Mech warrior

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Posted: December 30 2011 at 10:39pm | IP Logged Quote Mech warrior

I like it as well! Very unique. Thats cool you got the accidential firing of the .22 on video!!

I think me n you can be friends
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Measure, think about it, measure again, think about it some more, measure again, then cut......."Oh S***!!!!"

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"If my calculations are correct......when this baby hits 88mph, your gonna see some serious sh*t!"
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  midmichigun

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Posted: December 31 2011 at 5:29pm | IP Logged Quote midmichigun

WOW,

That is a nifty design!

Thanks for sharing it... and welcome to our humble home!

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  orions_hammer

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Posted: January 01 2012 at 2:46am | IP Logged Quote orions_hammer

Woa! That's amazing work!

Random reactions:

  • How big is the cylinder gap flash from 12 gauge? Even 357 produces a huge fireball, and can burn through the steel top strap fairly rapidly.

  • I love how you did the indexing holes! I may steal that design, if I ever make a revolver...

  • Glue-on templates are a great way to work--you can do all the try-and-fiddle work onscreen. I've noticed some printers are fairly far away from true scale, though, up to one percent, so I usually print a 1" background grid and check with calipers.

  • It's handy that 3/4" black iron pipe is a good fit for 12 guage at the chamber, but it's not the best steel on earth. At SAAMI proof pressure, 3/4" water pipe would need to hit about 100Kpsi tensile strength to be safe, so I'd definitely keep an eye on the chamber diameters during your proof period.

  • Can you explain to us how the fire control group works? Do you turn the cylinder by hand, and reset the hammer with the trigger ring somehow?

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  Tanner Frisby

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Posted: May 24 2012 at 2:01pm | IP Logged Quote Tanner Frisby

Thanks for all of the positive replies!

@orions_hammer:
The cylinder gap is sizeable. I haven't fired factory loads through it, only primers with the powder and shot removed. There is only one cylinder I would feel safe shooting a factory load through, and I don't see any value in risking it.

As for the fire control group, after firing, pump backwards to release the cylinders (which are to be turned by hand) and pumping backwards also resets the hammer and forces the trigger back to a released state. Pump forward, fire and repeat.
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  g85349

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Posted: May 24 2012 at 11:41pm | IP Logged Quote g85349

The chamber in a 12 gauge shotgun can easily see pressures in excess of 12,000 psi. Do you know what the rating is for black iron pipe?

If your materials cannot handle the pressures generated you are building a hand held bomb that is capable severely injuring or killing the person attempting to fire it.
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  SlamEffect

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Posted: February 03 2013 at 11:45am | IP Logged Quote SlamEffect

g85349 wrote:
The chamber in a 12 gauge shotgun can easily see pressures in excess of 12,000 psi. Do you know what the rating is for black iron pipe?

If your materials cannot handle the pressures generated you are building a hand held bomb that is capable severely injuring or killing the person attempting to fire it.


Not trying to be rude, but I did have to correct your chamber pressure estimate.

With a inside diameter of .75in, the shell fits with room to spare. That reduces pressure. Also, the SAAMI rating is not what the round produces, but rather what the limits are so gun manufacturers can produce safe ammo and safe guns. For actual chamber pressures, you can check out a few reloading guides, and find ratings like 5k - 7k.

There are also things like an inside and outside micrometer to measure expansion, if any, and string to fire at a safe distance.

With all safety measures considered and if the numbers are safe, have at it and have fun. No one ever got anywhere by being scared, but by solving the problem.
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  fpicard

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Posted: December 20 2015 at 5:59pm | IP Logged Quote fpicard

Hello,

You said that a 3/4' chamber fits perfectly for a 12 gauge shell, but I thought that a 12ga shell was around 0,787 inches in diameter. So, for a chamber of 0,75 inches (3/4'), does the 0,787 shell isn't too large to fit in ?

Another question : isn't it possible to chamber a shotgun barrel with a classic reamer rather than a very expensive chamber reamer ? What should be the problem (if there is one) ?

Thanx.
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