WOW!!!! I was thinking about this project yesterday. You are doing an amazing job on it! I think it looks great and is very creative thinking on how you have went about assembling everything.

I think it is a solid design. I know how easy it is to forget pictures in the heat of the moment! Sometimes we just have so much fun and thought going into what we are working on that stopping to snap a pic or 2 is the farthest thing from our minds!

I love it! Don't stress the ban that is not here or law yet......i think too many will flat out disagree and as long as we all stick together, we will be fine............thats what i keep telling myself anyways!

UNITED WE STAND!

Keep up the good work!

This is my take on a future ban:
Current firearms (such as this now finished receiver) will be grandfathered in. These laws could limit the transfer of these arms (I can't transfer anything I make anyway).

If a ban does come about that limits the transfer of arms and feeding devices ( such as you can no longer manufacture new ones or transfer current ones ) then I will still manufacture. The difference is that anything I manufacture will have to be manufactured and consumed ( only used ) in the state of manufacturing (Texas in my case).

With this now published and dated receiver, while I still can't transfer it, I can take it with me across state boarders without having to worry about the interstate commerce clause.

While on this topic, If a ban does go south, then I plan on manufacturing and selling "Texas Use ONLY" magazines. That could be interesting.

Thanks,
Tanner Frisby

Well, bad news. I've tried and tried, but I just can't get this belt feed design to feed. The main problem is the huge tolerances that come with hand made products. I designed the pawl to just barely move laterally enough to grab the next round, but when my pawl linkage system is "loose" it doesn't move far enough. Also, the pawl would rather push the next round away from the receiver than hop over the round and pull it in. A few weeks ago, I gave up on the pawl system. However, since I did name this thread "belt fed shotgun" I decided I had to give it at least a second shot. I designed a little housing unit to hold a small motor. This motor would pull in the cloth belt (another source of error, hand made elastic cloth belts) as it rotates, and just apply constant force until the next round is removed from the belt. I just finished up and installed the housing tonight, and I am sad to say, I can't provide enough power to the motor to forcefully pull in the belt. I will, however, commend myself for designing in a magazine option. Looks like this build has turned into "large capacity drum fed shotgun" now. Here are some pictures:











To be honest, I am kind of glad that this housing/motor method didn't work out. I know that my builds might be eye sores, but to me they are mechanically beautiful. Having to add in an extra source of power instead of converting the cartridge's power took away all the beauty of this build.

I recently received 100 feet of .06 music wire, so I'll get started on the drum soon. I'm thinking 30-50 rounds if I can manage that.

Other features to point out on this: I cracked the pistol grip on the right side, but again, my builds aren't for looks. While I did design in the ability to incorporate a safety into the fcg, I decided to use a bolt hold open instead.

As builds start wrapping up, it is a habit of mine to start designing the next project. I decided the biggest source of error in this build was the hand made belt (elastic band and staples). I purchased a 100 round RPD belt from military gun supply (had to pay sales tax on it also ) and have an sks barrel with a really good bore. I also have an ak-47 magazine. I think I am going to try to duplicate the intent of this build in 7.62 x39, with more precision manufactured integral pieces. I plan on 3d printing most of the firearm and investment sand casting it into either aluminum 356 or Zamak (probably the latter). The action will be gas delayed. Here are my questions:

How do most beltfeds prevent the pawl from "pushing" the belt instead of hopping over the next round and then pulling the belt? I really need help here, as I am at a total loss. I just can't figure this out.

What is the best material/alloy to cast a receiver / bolt / all other pieces from? What would be "safe" wall thicknesses? .2"? .15"?

How much force (impulse / momentum / power, I don't know which is correct for the question) does the bolt need to push a round through the belt. I popped in a few inert rounds and they were a pain to remove by hand.

If their are any .igs floating around for a belt fed (especially an rpd) I am sure I would be able to answer all of my questions.

Thanks,
Tanner Frisby

every thought about a "belt tensioner"? less like belt pulley on a car more like a friction belt on an exercise bike. Just a thought. 

Tanner, how most belt feeds avoid "pushing" the belt, as in on the return stroke to position for grabbing the next round, they use pivoting, spring loaded feed pawls. Basically they only pivot 1 way. So they grab the round, pull it in, then they fold or pivot over the next round and un fold or pivot with the spring.

Now, another consideration, The feed tray! The feed tray hold the rounds and belt in alignment, but, also, depending on the type of belt you use, ( disintegrating link or non disintegrating links) also depends on how the belt is held, and thus prevented from reward movement.

Now, on the disintegrating links, which means that each individual link will come apart once the round is removed, the belt is held by a 3rd pawl, which also pivots, on the feed tray and holds the belt in position, allowing it to only move 1 direction. It sounds complicated, but is actually very simple.

With the non disintegrating links, which means the links are permanently joined, it is even easier! There is simply a protrusion that the empty side of the links, fall over as they come out, and catch on it!

I will take pics of both types for you.

Also, there are, on good feed systems, 2 sets of feed pawls, which move in opposition of each other. Basically, as 1 set is pulling the belt in, the other set is moving opposite to grab the next round, and as the first set is going back into position to grab another, the second set is pulling. Basically, they work in tandem to move 1/2 the distance so that together they move the full distance. This form is very smooth feeding. But not necessary.

They type with 1 set moving the whole distance, works well, but is more rough. Best described as a "herky jerky" type of movement. But less complex.

It all sounds difficult, i know as i was in wonder till i saw the first one, then i realized who complicated i was making it in my head trying to figure it out!!!!

I will post pics for you of both types.

Tanner Frisby wrote; How do most beltfeds prevent the pawl from "pushing" the belt instead of hopping over the next round and then pulling the belt? I really need help here, as I am at a total loss. I just can't figure this out.

These photos are of the MG42 top cover internals. There are 2 sets of feed pawls, which operate in tandem. As the feed arm moves left, 1 set of pawls move left, and the other right, as the feed arm moves right, they move opposite. Basically, on recoil, the pawls move 1/2 the belt distance, and on the battery stroke, they move the other 1/2. To answer your question above, there is a little tab in the first pictures that hold the belt from traveling rearward. You can see it on the right side of the feed tray in the first pic.





This next pic shows the belt being held by the tab.







These are of the pawls and the linkage.



notice they are in different positions now? I moved the feed arm to illistrate how they move.




Here are the pawls, and in these i pivoted them down with my finger to show the movement they make as they "fold" over the round when moving rearward to grip it for the pull stroke.











This is the NON disentagrating system, meaning that the links are permanently joined and do NOT separate.

I was also thinking, the M2 links may work for this just fine! I do not have a .410 shell to measure, but, i do have some M2 links! I can get an I.D. on them for you, if you can get an O.D. on the rounds?

M2 links can be had for cheep still, well, kinda. But still,they are reusable and they are the disentagrating type so you can make it as long or short of a belt as you want. Heck, even if you had to squish them a little or spred them a little to make them fit the .410, you would be WELL ahead by using them verses making a belt.

Not sure if you saw this or not but;

Belt Feed

I figure with no good advice to give, I would at least do some cheerleading. This is (still) an awesome project.