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BlurredEdge RPD Build
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  blurrededge

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Posted: May 08 2015 at 1:42pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Got some work done, but some parts will need to be redone. I had a feeling going into it that there would be a lot of trail and error, and unforeseen issues might come up (and they did).

After a lot of eyeballing and calculating, I cut the tower off the FAL trigger housing, and milled out most of the back where the take down plunger and stock tang goes, and then welded it with a couple tacks incase I needed to make adjustments, onto the RPD lower (which at this point barely has anything left from previous undocumented attempts to fit alternate trigger groups).



After It was in place, I drilled out the hole for the bolt plunger to 5/8", but higher than the center of the original hole (top of the hole is just below the take down pin channel). Then I went to install the trigger group of the FAL with the hammer I had built up with weld.

The safety lever cannot be installed because the lip of the RPD lower is in the way. I'll have to work that out later.





Another issue that came up is the charging handle could not move back all the way because of the tack welds, which would be trimmed down and cleaned up when it was finished.



I switched gears and started working on the extension for the recoil spring tube, which the hammer would have to swing through the middle of to hit the firing pin.
It started as a 1" rod of 4140 prehard. I had spun most of it down to 5/8", recessed the tail to fit inside the tubing for the recoil spring, and cut a recessed ring in the back for the spring to seat against.





I started by machining the head that would mate with the bolt carrier down flat, almost flush with the 5/8" part, which would be the bottom.



This is how it fit in the lower.


Then I trimmed the sides to fit inside the receiver walls.


After comparing the parts for a while, I decided to mill off the bottom part of the bolt carrier at the back, just short of where the pin for the top cover roller was installed, and then trimmed the front and top of the spring tube extension to fit. This way, when I cut the slot for the hammer to swing through the extension, it is still held together at the nose, and the hammer can hit the back of the firing pin extension flush.



The camera drains batteries like a vampire, and my cell phones camera sucks, so I didn't get any photo's of cutting the slot for the hammer, but the rest of these shots illustrate where it stands and what the next steps are.

This is the parts laid out. The spring tube has a lip that will stop it from moving forward when the lower is removed, but it will be able to move alittle further forward than when the bolt and carrier are fully in battery. This way, that lip will not be under any contact unless the lower is removed, and has constant pressure on the bolt carrier when installed. The spring stops at the back of the slotted extension at about the same spot as it is now.



This is how the hammer swings through the slotted extension. I machined the slot 3/8" wide, and had to trim about .04" off each side of the hammer to fit.



I will also have to slot the bottom of the extension head, as right now, the hammer catches on it and cannot drop into the trigger housing any more without hitting the hammer spring tube or overextending and actually locking itself down under the pressure from the hammer spring. If I could angle the back of the FAL trigger housing lower off the RPD frame, it would solve that problem, and allow more room for the safety to fit (which will either get shortened/modified, or installed in a different clock location, like 9 instead of 12).

So, after locating a thick walled piece of 1" x 1.5" rectangular tubing, it appears that I can make a new lower to weld on. The dimensions are close enough, and even though the walls are thicker, I can always trim them down if I need to. This will also solve the issue of filling the curved are at the front of the FAL trigger housing.





I still have to work out the stock,... the wife wants a G3 style stock over an AR carbine extension. Either one will work, there is enough space inside both for the spring to fit now that it extends into the receiver.

I'll update when I make more progress.
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  backbencher

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Posted: May 08 2015 at 2:21pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Sweet.
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  blurrededge

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Posted: July 08 2017 at 1:25pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Goddamnit photobucket! anybody have a better source for free 3rd party image hosting? Looks like I'll have alot of threads to fix :/
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  backbencher

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Posted: July 08 2017 at 3:28pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

imgur seems to be popular.  Google doesn't seem to work very well, b/c it truncates the .jpg from the file name, and a lot of online board software looks for that file designation.

Lately, I've just been uploading things to ARFCOM, and occasionally my own website.
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  blurrededge

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Posted: November 28 2017 at 10:01am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

PICS ARE BACK UP, they are still on my photobucket, but I copied them over to imgur.

Made a bit of progress on this thing recently, but haven't been taking pics.

I'll take some "where we stand now" photos and put them up, and then try to take more from here on out.
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Posted: November 30 2017 at 11:19pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Here's the Trigger group / lower I carved out of a block of 6061, along with the parts.






I messed up the grip screw threads, and then messed up the angle when trying to fix it the first time, so I ended up tapping the whole thing for a large bolt, loc-titing it in place, and then drilling and tapping the bolt.


Here's the FAL lower (what's left of it) next to the new one.




For the trigger plunger and spring area, I machined it out of the block rather than attaching a bent piece of sheet metal like the original.


The bolt carrier driving rod (as I made this one) has to be assembled from two pieces, because both ends are larger than the hole they need to fit through. I used two small 3mm countersunk screws, and they seem to be holding up sofar.


The back end of the drive rod is flared out, and the front of the spring guide rod is flared in, so they won't separate once under spring pressure.


I made a new spring retainer to fit the larger tube I'm not using, here it is next to the original


And here's the end of the tube it slots into. Since I didn't have the ability to easily make the ramped slot, I just made 90* turns, so it works more like the spring cap on a STEN.


and the whole drive spring assembly fits into an AR15 receiver extension. I bored out the back, chamfered it, and matched the slots so you can access the spring retainer without taking it off the trigger group.




the front end gets centered in the tube with a sleeve that fits tight between the stock tube and the spring guide tube.


Once the stock tube is tightened into the lower and the castle nut torqued down, the rear half of the drive rod gets dropped in from the back, and the front end screwed on.




Then it can be slid into the stock tube so the trigger group can be assembled


Trigger goes together like a regular FAL, except the safety lever gets installed at a different angle, which on a standard FAL would be the Auto position. The trigger guard was made from a recycled UZI trigger guard that was cut off a lower to harvest the magazine well, and has had two pieces of 16ge steel welded to the ends to make it work. Top front of the guard is screwed to the lower, and the rest is retained under grip pressure like a regular FAL trigger guard.




once the trigger group is all together, the drive rod can be moved forward (gotta push the hammer all the way down for that), and the the spring and retainer installed.


The only AR stock I had laying around was a magpul FCS, so until I figure out what kind I want for the final product, this will work.


On the right front side of the trigger group, I had to cut a clearance slot for the charging handle when it comes all the way back






I also put a full length rail on the topcover secured by 5 countersunk screws going into the bottom from inside the cover. The rear needed some clearance for the latch to be able to move. For the moment, it has this cheap windage adjustable rear peep that I think I got from kel-tec. It'll work until I figure out something better.







When I welded the front sight to the top of the gas block, I wasn't careful enough because it was so far off during the initial test fire, that I decided to cut cut it off, order a new base, and stick it at the end of the barrel.
Here she is waiting for the second round of tests at the range before I can even think about moving on to final finioshing touches like parkerizing and duracoat.
Trilux SUIT scope added just because :lol;


and yes the bircage flash hider is clocked wrong, it's just acting as a thread /muzzle protector right now.
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Posted: December 01 2017 at 6:51am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

It's amazing what you fellas can do w/ a proper mill.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: December 01 2017 at 7:36am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

That looks awesome!
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Posted: December 01 2017 at 8:42am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

I ALMOST went with a G3 trigger group, it looks like it would have worked and required no modification to the hammer to reach the firing pin.... no welding on extra material anyway.
But, it's wider than the FAL trigger housing, and would have required cutting through the frame and into the cage that holds the whole trigger together for the charging handle to clear... or you could just trim the charging handle in that one area I suppose...or make it a reciprocating charging handle.
With the live firing I've done sofar and working out the bugs with light primer strikes, failure to fully strip a round out of the belt, etc. I wish the charging handle was on the left side. BUT, that's only because there is no "bolt hold open" option, which on the original, was the sear. I've thought about adding something to the front of the trigger group that would engage the ejection slot in the bolt carrier, but haven't really gotten there yet...


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Posted: December 01 2017 at 8:45am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Every time I make a new post, I get a white screen with this text:

CDO.Message.1 error '80070005'

Access is denied.

/forum/functions/functions_send_mail.asp, line 139


then I click the back arrow, and it shows the new post has loaded, but the text is also still in the "post reply" box.

I also have 2 PM's I can't read because of a similar error message
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Posted: December 01 2017 at 8:50am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Pray for the hamsters.  The long term fix is probably to migrate to a more modern board OS.  That depends on Weaponeer.
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Posted: December 01 2017 at 12:52pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

This is the dedicated SAW belt bag hanger / ejection scoop I made. It's aluminum, but I think once it gets a good coat of epoxy on it, it'll stand up to ejecting steel cases better.
I made one out of 16 ga sheet metal first, but I was NOT happy with the way it came out. I had also tried to move the belt bags over toward the starboard side more, to get the weight more centered, and tried to raise it up alittle. Changing the height made i so that cases would bounce back into the receiver, and jam it up. Live rounds couldn't eject because the bullet still in the case didn't have enough room, so the bolt would jam up with the round stuck between the ejector and the scoop. Good learning experience anyway, lol.
So, on this one, I ended up using the adapter for the original drum hanger (to save myself a bunch of machine time trying to get the 4* taper of the 45* dovetail lined up right) and just epoxied/screwed it to the bottom of the bracket where it screws into the receiver.




Here you can see the marks on the back end from spent casings, and the marks toward the front from live rounds. Spent casings still bounce off the front of the trigger group, but as long as they don't jam up the works I don't really care.


I modified the front of the topcover so I can open it about 100*, like most modern belt feds, instead of the 45* the russians designed it with. I prefer to have plenty of room to get at the feed tray and under it if I need to.



To do this, I had to cut the tabs off the front of the topcover hinge piece, as well as remove, trim, and re attach the tension spring. I used two 3mm button head screws to move the spring further into the hinge...

Note: drilling the holes for this was easy, but it was fighting me tap every step of the way tapping the threads... I had to do 1/8 turns, and then back the tap off to make any progress without breaking it off in the hole (which happened on the second one)




Since I tore down the topcover for those pics, here's where the optic rail screws are. You can see the holes from all the rivets that held the original rear sight in place. I re-used the larger hole (2nd from the left) for one of the screws. In hindsight, I should have made it closer to the step in the topcover to reduct flex in the rail. The topcover can and will flex in you have something jammed between the feed tray and receiver (or it's not machined deep enough like DSA did).


Here's my 3x ACSS primary arms optic with the 7.62x39 / .300BlkOut BDC reticle.
It looks like I could probably get away with adding a lower profile rail on just the back portion of the topcover, and it wouldn't Need to extend over the latch at the back... I might do that with my second topcover.



Lastly I had to drill the gas port out to 3/16" to get it to cycle reliably. I don't know if the hammer is providing that significant resistance or what, but I also had to open up the slots in the gas selector to match.
Blued one on top is original, parkerized is modified:

Setting #1 on both, which on the modified one is almost as wide as setting 2 on the original (hard to tell in the pic)


Setting #1 still on the bottom, setting #2 on the top; they measure the same.


Setting #2 on the bottom, setting #3 on the top; both the same width.


Setting #3 on bottom and top.









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Posted: December 01 2017 at 3:43pm | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

Please, if you can, include a picture of your gas port.

I built mine on a Project Guns lower and I was in a super crunch. I assembled it in ... March?
I was rushing to get it done so I could get it registered before April 2014 when anything cool got banned here - that much I am certain of. (Even though as long as I had possession of the receiver I was fine, I still set that as my dead line to get operational)

I only ever test fired 10 rounds from it. Each round had to be cycled manually like a bolt action. My gas tube adjuster (what I assume is in that picture above) was frozen solid. I figured I'd have to drill out the gas port because I heard that was the solution in undergassed AK's.

To be honest, I haven't touched it since. Maybe I should make that my winter project?
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Posted: December 01 2017 at 9:01pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

If you look closely at the gas adjuster (pictured at the end of my previous post), you can see that it it tapered to provide a better seal when the retaining bolt is tightened down. If it were stuck, I would start by spraying the crap out of it with penetrating oil, including through the port that vents to the piston head, and the gas port in the barrel.

If the bolt will turn, that's a good start. To loosen it, you can use the handy wrench included in the spare parts / maint. kit they come with. Note: there are two different ways you can use the wrench on the bolt head.



Once the bolt is loose, don't remove it completely, just back it out a few turns so there is a gap.


Then get a hammer, and use the bolt head as a punch to loosen the adjuster drum


Once the rim on the adjuster is passed the anti-rotation post, it should also be loose enough to come out easily.


Now you can see the gas port that goes into the bore, the easiest way to line it all up was to drill straight through the gas block into the barrel. My gas port is actually alittle off center when looking down the bore, but it works.


The gas port that leads to the piston is 90* off of that, drilled from front to back.




This is my attempt to show how the gas adjuster works, and why there are only 3 settings.... that's all there is room for in this arrangement. Gas goes from bore straight down, into the slot in the gas adjuster at a 45* angle, which can constrict it if needed (hence the different sized slots) and takes another 45* turn to go into the expansion chamber where the piston head is


I didn't measure the original gas port size before I drilled it out, but the port reamer in the cleaning kit can't be far off, and it measures out to about... a #16 drill bit or 4.5mm



Before I go drilling out he gas port, I would make sure that all the parts move without binding.
With the topcover up, I would make sure the bolt carrier can move back and forth in the receiver just by tipping it up and down. It should also move very easily with the topcover down with the roller engaging the feed mechanism with no drive spring tension. You should be able to slap it back and forth. If all of that stuff is nice and loose, then I would go for the gas port. This is assuming you have freed the adjuster and tried it all the way up at max setting.
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Posted: December 04 2017 at 9:53am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

Thank you for the detailed pictures.

I did dig out the firearm this weekend.
My kit did not come with the wrench. My gas block is locked on setting 2.
I'm going to soak it in ATF for about a week and then try to loosen it again.

when I put the hole in the barrel I did the math based on center line of the hole to the edge of the gas block. Without freeing the adjuster I'm not even sure I'm in alignment. I'm sure, at the time, I gave her the old smoke test (take a drag and exhale smoke into the muzzle to see where it exits) but, as I mentioned, I was quite rushed. After it soaks a little, I'll see if I can't free it.

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Posted: January 05 2018 at 8:19pm | IP Logged Quote svlwolf63

Blurrededge can you email me

Please use the Messenger for email addresses, so your email address isn't harvested by spam bots.  Thanks, the Management.
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Posted: January 06 2018 at 12:47am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

My messenger on this site doesn't work very well, but I will try to get a message to you
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