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fiberglass manufacturing
Weaponeer Forums : Casting

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  quinnbrian

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Posted: January 20 2014 at 11:29pm | IP Logged Quote quinnbrian

Hello all,
Just start by saying my name is Brian.
And I have, about 20 plus years in the fiberglass business, everything for mold design to manufacturing of open mold and low pressure molded parts. So if you have any question ,that I can help you with, just post them there and I will try to help you out as much as possible. I'm not in business anymore and I'm NOT trying to get business, but wouldn't mind trying to help others in need of some info. Fiberglass has no mysteries, just simple procedure that need to be followed.
Thanks for looking, and hope I can help.
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  backbencher

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Posted: January 21 2014 at 8:24pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Brian, how kind of you to drop in.

Since California decided AR-15 thumbhole stocks were just as evil as pistol grips, AR-15 thumbhole stocks have climbed to $300 per, imported from New Zealand or Europe. I've resorted to attempting to build one out of Legos, which is not as easy as it sounds. Is there an easy way to build an ugly AR-15 thumbhole stock that doesn't involve using time consuming molds?
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  quinnbrian

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Posted: January 22 2014 at 11:46am | IP Logged Quote quinnbrian

Yes there is,
you can uses a urethane foam board ,as a core material, and then fiberglass over it.
The urethane foam ( in board form ) has been used as a insulation for pipes, boiler etc. It not cheap, but sometimes you can buy off cut or pieces that are left over from a job.
You can put multiple layer together to make the thickness you need. Just plain white glue works well.
The board is easy to shape, with sanding block, or file or just by hand.
The urethane foam is one of the only foams that the styrene ( one of the chemicals in fiberglass resin) will not destroy. You can't uses whites styrofoam board or SM board (the blue styrofoam) because the fiberglass resin will melt these type of foam.
You can also buy two part urethane kits that you mix together and pour in place. This type of urethane is used in the boat industry to aid in flotation , they will pour it into a cavity and let it expand, making the boat almost unsinkable . You would need to make some way of pouring it, into a box, or maybe a flat surface with a dam built around in the general shape of the stock ,you would like to build. If you are going to uses a flat surface as a molding base ,spray some releasing agent on the surfaces of your make shift mold, like a oil spray you spray in a frying pan, or an spray oil lube, that way you can get your part out of your mold, box etc. You pour the mixed two parts into your make shift "mold" and let it rise. Most of these foam will expand anywhere from 5 to 1 up to 10 to 1 ,so keep that in mind. One 8 ounce glass full could net you 10, 8 ounce glass when it expands.   This type of urethane foam is more porous and will have more air voids (holes) to fill in. But it can be shaped just like the board form, and usually can be bought for about $20.00 or more depending on the size of the kit.
There is a third type of urethane , its a high density urethane pour in place that is used in making highly detailed parts out of closed molds. This urethane foam is just like the foam board ( maybe even better) very hard ,about 10 per square inch.
After you have made your urethane stock you can fiberglass over it. It doesn't matter what type of glass you uses, but try and get one that will conform to your shapes you have made. A chopper strand will work just fine, if you want some roving fiberglass in your stock, just reminder that you can not put two layer of roving back to back, you will need a chopper stand layer between them, or they will delaminate ( come apart ) as you uses your new gun stock. For the most part chopper strand mat will do a great job, and once you have applied a coat, you can sand it , shape it and put another coat on , until you have about an 1/8 of an inch minimum , so keep that in mind when you are sanding your urethane stock down to size, that you are going to put fiberglass over it, so make it a little smaller.
A lot of ,or most of the supplies you need can be bought at a good fiberglass supply shop.
When you go to buy your fiberglass resin, there a lot of different kinds. If you go to the hardware store they will probably only have a "GP resin" general purpose ,which will work and is the cheapest .
hope this help .... any more question ,just ask
thanks
Brian
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  backbencher

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Posted: January 22 2014 at 6:31pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Brian, that does help, I really don't like the idea of messing about with molds & such when making a one-off, will have to see where this project goes down the line.
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  quinnbrian

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Posted: January 22 2014 at 7:54pm | IP Logged Quote quinnbrian

Ha you never know...make one and the next thing you know, people will be knocking down your door looking for you to make one for them.
cheers, and have fun
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  backbencher

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Posted: January 24 2014 at 3:45pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

What I'm planning to do is make up a plastic brick thumbhole stock, then build left & right hand copies, & send it off to a wood stock maker w/ a pantograph. Then you can buy wood stocks from him.
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  quinnbrian

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Posted: January 24 2014 at 3:59pm | IP Logged Quote quinnbrian

If that's what your going to do, you can just uses your old stock. Build it up with bondo , shape it , make it the way you want and send that off to the copier.
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  backbencher

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Posted: January 24 2014 at 9:09pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Not exactly. Folks w/ pantographs have particular issues w/ AR stocks b/c of the buffer tube well. So it has to be a right hand or left hand stock w/ a buffer tube recess under the cheekpiece in order to be reproduced.
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