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Satisfying Dcorb’s bloodlust...
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  Paraquat

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Posted: January 09 2015 at 9:54am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

... for projects.


Stripped out a brake bleeder in my car.
Picked up these fix it's for 6 dollars each


Squared it up best I could a casting.


Drilled and tapped for 1/4 NPT. A little dope on the threads and it works again. In this picture I had already removed the piston and seal to prevent chips from being trapped inside. I wish I knew about these things sooner - I've discarded calipers in the past because of broken bleeders.


Some fun while at work...


Picked up a gnarly compressor. My problem is distribution of air. I had a scrap 1.75 round bar so I milled it square, drilled and tapped (a bit too deep, which is why it looks like the fittings are bottomed out) and now I have two QD's in my AO. The bottom left fitting supplies air to my machine and the bottom right is a reserve tank (old, dead compressor) which gives me an additional 60 gallons. The big valve is from Lowes. The two smaller ones are from Harbor Freight. The Lowes valve leaks...

Why do I need air at my machine?



I built a power draw bar. Someone here, I think it was Panacea Beach Bum? Made a power draw bar. He was an inspiration.
I tried following the various plans and ideas on CNCZone and Practical Machinist but I couldn't get enough air to exhaust to properly torque the drawbar.


A friend of mine is in charge of automation and design of test fixtures at his work. He can't remove anything from the property but he can tip me off when they throw out something cool. The air cylinder and the solenoid valves are "reclaimed".


Of course, life can never be easy: the solenoids are 24VAC. I almost tossed them until my friend recommended a door bell transformer. Brilliant!


My next break came finding a dual position, dual pole, spring center switch. The push button activates the air cylinder only so if a tool or collet get stuck in the taper it will bang it out.

The normally open port on the solenoid keeps the air cylinder retracted when not in use.

Total cost here is ~50 bucks. The scrap aluminum was donated. Solenoids, cylinder, and regulator are reclaimed, as well as the PTC fittings. I had extra hose. Transformer was 15 bucks. Butterfly wrench was 30. I had the various bits of wire. 5 bucks for the switch.
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  northumbrian

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Posted: January 09 2015 at 11:09am | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

BRAVO [hands clapping] BRAVO.

Nice bit of work there Paraquat
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  backbencher

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Posted: January 09 2015 at 11:24am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Impressive.
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  UKBiker

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Posted: January 09 2015 at 1:20pm | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Nice work there Paraquat, ingenious use of scrap stuff to fabricate it all from.
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  dcorb

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Posted: January 09 2015 at 10:48pm | IP Logged Quote dcorb

Some neat stuff there.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: January 10 2015 at 9:40am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

Thanks, guys!

I was thinking about it, and decided against it, but thinking again... just the way I was inspired by PBB's draw bar maybe someone will be inspired by something here. So I should post more.

I made guards for my Bridgeport out of balsa and plexiglass I had laying around. They butt up against the vise to keep chips from filling the T slots.
It's nice, and gives me a place to write notes, but now it's a to-do to remove the vise and guards and strap a large piece to the table.



I ordered a 6x12 plate of 1018 steel. Turns out my vise only opens 5. So I knocked an inch off.
Fortunately I was able to use a machine at work to tap these holes. they are all 1/2-13 so now I can drop it in the vise and use a regular stud kit with strap down clamps for larger material.


Drilled and stained an old piece of 2x4 for a drill holder.
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  dcorb

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Posted: January 10 2015 at 10:10pm | IP Logged Quote dcorb

I like the plate with the threaded holes. It is something I am going to copy as I think it would come in handy to hold odd parts to mill.
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  UKBiker

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Posted: January 11 2015 at 12:37pm | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

I suppose if you didn't have an available air supply you could always rig up an 12V cordless impact gun with a remote switch and car battery instead of the air powered one for a small home workshop.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 9:33am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

I picked up a Dillon 650xl.

I made a few loads. I wish we had a reloading section.

I went to eBay and dropped $2.73 USD on two LED rear turn signals for a car. I wired one up to a potentiometer. This allowed me to dim it. I repurposed a garage door latch to hold the potentiometer. I used a cut down 20 gauge shot gun shell to insulate the side of the LED.



Rev A was LED strips but they were too bright.

Beats the 45 dollar "sky light".

I couldn't wait to work on it. I did the brass thrust washer, low mass ball, and the roller bearing rod.

I found a guy who wouldn't give me specifics, but he has 55 gallon drums FULL of brass, sorted by caliber.

I got a wet tumbler.

My next hurdle was that I was filling the spent primer tray. I'm 'particular' so I deprime and then tumble my brass to ensure the primer pockets are cleaned out.

Dillon sells a plate for this. The plate is bulky and is just a 1/4 NPT with a brass nipple screwed into it. Too pedestrian for me.











This allowed me to use the factory hardware. I made the OD of the tube .515 so the clear plastic tubing would be a nice tight fit. Most people use a zip tie...
I have the tube exiting into old plastic vitamin containers. The large flip open half lid is perfect.

Now I couldn't feed cases fast enough!
I came up with a case feed extension which was a 2 dollar piece of black tubing and a $4.50 some kind of coupler.





This let me feed out to 100 pieces now. It's still not fast enough and I worry about cases slamming into each other after a nearly 4 foot drop. I have something else in the mix right now and I'll be posting that soon.

I got mixed up with a weirdo who has two fully automated casting set ups. He bought a ton of lead.
A literal, 2000 lbs of lead.

He mixes a cocktail of lead and I think he said antimony so he can alter the brinell hardness.


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  backbencher

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 10:47am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Awesome!
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 11:14am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

My club got together and we bought 17,500 heads.







287 lbs of lead. They are moly coated.





I made a drying rack out of some old solid core wire and a piece of styrofoam.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 11:27am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

Well, I broke the internet with those.

Also got a bike from a friend.

Now, I've spoken here about how I wanted to take a street bike engine and drop it into a cruiser frame. This was my intention. I saw a used 1000cc engine pop up for $500 bucks. Needed rings. Then my friend was rear ended on his bike. The insurance company was going to total it out for $1300 because it had frame damage.
I figured if I was willing to drop 500 on an engine, I could muster up the other 8 for the ECU, wiring harness, calipers, etc etc.








This is EXACTLY why I bought a welder. That's a bung that holds up a fiberglass windshield. The dumb part is that it had already broken off. If you look behind the bung you can see a small hole. There is a "support fork" that bolts to these two bungs and holds the windshield up. This support fork was attached with a piece of sheet metal and two self tappers - one of which went in that hole. Which means this bike had an oopsie before my friend bought it.

It's a 2004 Honda CBR1000rr and it has 11.5k miles on it. It'd half plasti-dip and half carbon fiber wrap.
I had this bike up to 163 mph.

I hate helmets. I wear my full face willingly on this. It scares the sheeet out of me. The first 4 rides I felt like the nose was going to lift on me. Once I got that out of my system I was able to ride it. Then rip it. Last Saturday I did my first rolling wheelie.

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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 11:31am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

I guess just click the Red X if you want to see the pictures.
They aren't loading but when I click on the kitten "can't find this picture" it displays the real picture.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 12:32pm | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

I have a Lone Wolf 9mm build going on.

Bought a CMT Bolt. The bolt hits the Glock magazine and needs to be modified. Lone Wolf charges 50 bucks to do this, but they offer illustrations...





Red Dykem to represent human sacrifice...
I measured the distance from the breech face to the end of the mag at 1.45"
I scribed a line 1.5" to the roll pin, but I thought that'd look weird so I went beyond the roll pin hole. I knew it wasn't much so I started with a 15 degree cutter.

I was going to record my dimensions but I broke the tip of the tool and free handed it after that.



Finish pass



Still makes contact. I went almost full depth at 15 degrees. I'm going to try a 30 degree cutter tonight.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 12:52pm | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

Then I was playing with a friend's rifle. He said he had an issue feeding.





This was a new one to me. I've never seen a round fire and do a 180 degree twist inside the action.
The BHO was loose, the spring is weak, and I'm going to try a lighter buffer and spring, along with a chamber polish.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 12:58pm | IP Logged Quote Paraquat



Here's a clevis I made. I ran a 3/8 endmill through it, walked it along the sides to make it ~.385-.390 so it'd be a nice fit for 3/8 material...



... but I only had 1/2 thick material... so I had to knock it down with a fly cutter



This is a 1.5"x1.0"x.500" block. It has a .755" diameter hole in the middle...



..and a .196" hole through the length of it.



I think you can tell now, I'm trying to build a case collator from a 5 gallon bucket.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 1:15pm | IP Logged Quote Paraquat



This was a great one. I was working on my truck and had a caliper bolt seize. It took a torch, a 3 foot pipe, and a 1/2" drive rachet to break that slider bolt in half.
It was 12mm, or .472"
I had to drill it up to .468" to get it to break free. Fought me every step of the way.
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  UKBiker

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Posted: November 20 2015 at 6:03pm | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Nice projects Paraquat, I especially like the CBR, Sportsbike performance is just unbelievably enjoyable and trouser crappingly terrifying at the same time, I'm up to 180 on my ZRX1000R so far and next year will hopefully see me break the double ton on it, then I may get around to fitting the nitrous kit I have in a box waiting to go on

My milling machine is getting wired in ne t week along with my Southbend clone lathe, I can't wait to start making some swarf with the pair of them, so I will be posting plenty of pictures myself soon I hope
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  Paraquat

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Posted: November 21 2015 at 7:40am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat





Here's the "it's a work in process" picture. You can see the little square block I mentioned above houses the IR LEDs and slips over the tube.

I used the "plate with a lot of holes" mentioned closer to the beginning of the post to secure the collator plate and mill the slots. I could've put it on the rotary table but that's heavy, I wasn't sure this was going to even work, and I had to justify making that plate with a lot of holes.

I used a 1/8 thick plate of plexiglass to line the bottom of the bucket because there wasn't a flat surface on it. I kept losing cases underneath my collator plate.

The collator plate is 1/4 plexiglass. I had to remove the center section from the floor liner mentioned above so I used the pieces I cut out as agitators on this plate. They are just glued on. IF I WERE SMARTER I would've lined the agitators up with the slots in the collator plate. Too often the cases will orient and ride the perimeter of the bucket but once they reach about centerline they just fall off.



I had an issue with 1/8 or so cases jamming until I widened the exit ramp. I could've made a funnel out of aluminum - my idea was more of a Y shaped cut in a block but I wanted to confirm this was my problem and just went nuts with a razor blade and glue.

I'm using a 5 RPM 12 volt DC "high torque" worm gear driven electric motor I got from ebay. It was $15 USD, shipped. The 5 gallon bucket was ~$2.75 USD. Bits 'o wire from various projects I had laying around. The IR LED's were a matched set I got from Rat Shack for ~3 USD. All controlled with an Arduino Uno and a relay board.

It cycled 100 cases last night. It's a little noisy - the cases shuffling, not the motor. It choked on the last 3. Two were floating in the collator waiting to be sorted when I had one case get stuck under the collator plate.

"Hey, moron! an Arduino is expensive and overkill"
Yes, but I can program in C. I still have trouble with simple logic circuits.
For those not in the know, it's a little computer. It reads 1's or 0's; true or false. The beam is either in tact and true, and broken and reads false. This condition is the state. With the Arduino I can monitor state change of the IR LEDs and potentially add a counter to the circuit. Plus I want to add a time out feature to it where if the IR beam isn't broken in, say 30 seconds, that means the collator is empty and stop the motor.
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  bikergunnut

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Posted: November 21 2015 at 8:18pm | IP Logged Quote bikergunnut

  Paraquat,   Here is the reloading forum

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=497

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