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MP40 Inspired Build
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  blurrededge

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Posted: April 21 2015 at 3:30pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

you might need 3 tubes to have enough compression for the spring and full bolt travel. Just make them alittle longer so they don't bottom out when the bolt is all the way forward.
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: April 21 2015 at 4:19pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

But if they're longer, it will limit the rearward travel because they'll bottom sooner in that direction...right?
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  blurrededge

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Posted: April 21 2015 at 5:00pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

yes, but they don't need to be that much longer, maybe .25" each, and they would still give more travel than only 2. The more sections there are, the more they can collapse to a shorter overall length.

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  vintagemx0

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Posted: April 21 2015 at 5:13pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

Thanks blurrededge - You're absolutely right. I also just realized that if the spring had sufficient preload, it wouldn't require much at all - just like you said.
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: April 22 2015 at 12:08am | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0



So, I messed around with the etch-a-sketch tonight and here is a sketch of the essential components as I see them (at this point) to move forward on, except for the details of the sights and I haven't thought too much about a safety yet.

-Ken
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  yaybacon

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Posted: April 22 2015 at 5:51am | IP Logged Quote yaybacon

love the telescoping idea for coolness, but its going to scrape click on every coil of the spring like the ugly sound from compressing the center of a toiletpaper holder.. hate to suggest changing it, but the way the ak47 does it could be built in like 5seconds from coathangers/wire. or use a ton of lube to dampen the sound/resistance
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  UKBiker

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Posted: April 22 2015 at 6:17am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Why not make the tubes from something like Delrin or similar, that way it won't make any scraping noises and should also act like a buffer absorbing some of the energy, Delrin should be strong enough for the job.
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: April 29 2015 at 1:06am | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

Yeah, you guys are probably right. But, I think I can make these pieces and decide later if I want to abandoned them. This is a hobby effort , so I don't mind some trial and error (emphasis on error...)

I've been busy with other things lately and haven't worked much on this project, but I was belly-aching about what to do about a safety? The more I looked at this build, and the more I searched for examples on the internet, the more I liked the idea of a push-button style right in front, and to the top of, the trigger guard. Much like what is on a .30 cal. M1 or a Ruger .22 rifle. There is a nice big "delta" in my pistol grip where a button would fit nicely. I really like this idea over any other I have considered (AR, AK, various 180° toggles, etc...)

So, I drilled a hole in this area only to realize it was substantially hollow in there, so I filled the region with weld, ground clean, then re-drilled a 3/8" hole clean through:



Next, I purchased a 3/8" diameter pin (I don't know the proper term, but this pin is offered in various lengths and diameters, has a grasp ring at one end, and has a spring-loaded ball near the other end.) I fashioned this pin with a flat spot ground in it to limit the travel when the pushed from side-to-side when pushed. The idea is to expose a depth where material has been removed from the pin to allow a pin to recess into when in the "fire" position. When in the "safe" position, the pin will be blocked and thereby not allow the trigger to rotate on it's axis.



I had some issues on my first try. I was able to get the pin to be captive with a retaining screw, but I hollowed too much material for the interference pin. Also, when in the "fire" position, some of the area that has been removed is exposed on the exterior of the weapon. I thought it would look terrible, but the width of the lower receiver really shields this view and it looks pretty good.





Anyway, like I said - I pretty much screwed up this first pin and need to re-do. After I get it working properly, I'll post details about the whole safety selector system. I'm also going to use a bolt hold-open (J-groove in tube) as I like this feature, but I really feel a closed-bolt weapon needs a trigger safety as well.

The devil's in the details. This little pin has already taken much time, and it's a complete redo. Funny how little things can become more complicated than the larger things.

-Ken
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  blurrededge

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Posted: April 29 2015 at 7:57am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Brilliant!
I never bothered considering one of those ball detent pins because I had no idea how I'd make it, but seeing how you modified the pre-existing one opens up the options. It looks like you designed it that way from the start (which is what you should tell everyone in the future )

I usually plan for the 1/2 hour job to take 3 hours, but I also have extra stuff to do on hand incase I'm ahead of schedule (which never happens).
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  backbencher

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Posted: April 29 2015 at 12:25pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

That looks really good, and may give me some better options for my own project.  Thanks much.
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: May 03 2015 at 6:04pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

OK, so I struggled with the whole safety switch thing. The main problem is that because the spring and ball are integral with the purchased component pin I set out to use. All opportunities for using the pin itself as the part that interferes with movement is almost impossible to do because you can not scarf-away any material in the region where spring is. I was about to abandoned this whole approach and settle into thinking about a different scheme, when it occurred to me that maybe all I had to do was transfer the movement somehow. The best point on the pin to transfer motion via a lever of some kind was right where the spring was. So, why not drill a small hole into the rod that goes inside the the spring and then work-out a lever that has a small little pin that goes inside the hole?

So, I drilled the little hole:



And then made the little lever. Here are the pin (with integral spring and ball), the lever, and a modified screw that retains the pin:



So, in the view below you can see where I hogged-out a lot of material. In the end, I really didn't need to do this. You can see also the pin with it's newly added little tiny hole in the center of the internal spring, and where I added a hole in the grip frame to serve as the pivot point for the little lever.



I apologize in advance for the poor focus, but here you can see the interference lever in the FIRE position:



And next, in the SAFE position:



By now, you're thinking "OK, how are you going to secure that interference lever?" Good question! That was the question I spent half of my morning pondering. I'm hoping what I came up with will pass the test of time because it ended up being stupid easy. I made a little leaf spring from one of those paper binder clips (my wife and I have a few in drawer for clipping potato chip bags closed. (Sorry, just had to share a good tip for the chip bags...) ...and... one rivet later it is attached to trigger lever.



So here she is fully assembled FIRE position with trigger pulled:



And trigger pulled in the SAFE position:



It is incredible how relatively fast you can move through some things, but then other "little" things just slow you WAYYYY down. This trigger safety pretty much kicked my ass. I have spent a good solid two days on it. Oh well, as long as it holds up, I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

Next, mag well redux. Stay tuned...

-Ken
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  blurrededge

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Posted: May 03 2015 at 8:08pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

I knew those bag clips (that's what we use them for too) would show up as a spring eventually in someone's build

Excellent job figuring that out.
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Posted: May 12 2015 at 9:57pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

Magwell Redux....

Sketch it, print it, paste it, press it, drill it, cut it, bend it, form it, weld it, sand it, fab it, install it,.....POST IT!

This second attempt at the mag well was better. Definitely a better idea to incorporate the two sides and the majority of the rings in one piece. I still have some final finishing to do on it, but it holds a mag nicely and the release functions very well.

Pics...





















So, next I was thinking I should do the barrel and barrel trunnion. I may stall some and do some of the final sanding on everything I have done thus far. Either way, I'll keep moving slowly forward...

-Ken
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  UKBiker

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Posted: May 13 2015 at 4:41am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Nice work, thanks for for posting pictures of the process, I am really impressed with what you've managed to achieve with few tools and some seriously clever thinking.
I can't wait to see this project finished
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Posted: May 13 2015 at 10:45pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

We particularly appreciate the "Post It".
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Posted: May 18 2015 at 12:23am | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

Got some stuff done today. I turned the barrel trunnion. It was interesting because all I had was 2" diameter bar and had to turn it down to about 1.375. A lot of steel hair as a result! It went pretty well.



The photo above shows the turned profile and threading on the front end for my faux barrel nut.



Above shows a trial fit of the barrel nut. I found a right-hand 1.125-16 axle nut at the hardware store. I'll be welding some more material to the front of it and turning on the lathe before I'm done.



Above I'm hogging out with 3/4" bit. I'm going to press the barrel in and cross-pin. I may ream this first, but I doubt that I'll ever be taking the barrel back off so if it galls going in, so be it...



In the photo above, the trunnion is being pressed into the tube after trimming and deburring. Gute und tight!



In the photo above, I also managed to pre-set the head space based on the depth of bolt's recess, grind a feed ramp, and cut clearance for the extractor.



The photo above shows the newly cut ejection port.



The photo above is of the ejection port with a mag inserted.





The two photos above are just miscellaneous front and rear views.

It was a good day. That is probably the most I have used my little lathe since I bought it. Over the next couple of nights, I may just turn down some more of that 2" round bar into usable stock for the bolt carrier and bolt tail. Also, as you can clearly see in the photos here, there is a lot of cosmetic stuff that could be done. Either way, I'll keep trudging along...

-Ken
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Posted: May 18 2015 at 12:57am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

It's beautiful.  It really is.  Please forgive me, I've forgotten.  Which mags are you using?
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  MikkelChristensen

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Posted: May 18 2015 at 4:33am | IP Logged Quote MikkelChristensen

Fantastic work, have you considered making a full set of drawings to upload? I'd be more than happy to pay given the quality of your workmanship and I'm sure a few others on this board would be similarly inclined
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  UKBiker

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Posted: May 18 2015 at 5:04am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Outstanding work I am seriously in awe of your skill and craftsmanship
This build is absolutely stunning, I can't wait to see it completed.
Will you do a video of it firing for us all please?
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  blurrededge

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Posted: May 18 2015 at 9:21am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

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