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MP44 Inspired Build
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  UKBiker

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Posted: July 22 2016 at 5:16pm | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Even with safety glasses I've had crap get in my eye, now I wear close fitting wrap around glasses whenever I am doing anything where there's a possibility of getting something in my eye.

I once had a twin tube of epoxy stuff burst when it was left in the sun which sent stuff in both eyes and set leaving my eyes covered with almost an eggshell thick layer, I was 7 floors up on scaffolding on my own, I made it down and spent the day in hospital having my eyes washed out.
The Doctor said if only one of the chemicals had hit me I would have been permanently damaged but as both did they neutralised when they set, and I was lucky.

Now I take all precautions whenever my eyes are at risk, and I have a huge eye wash station in my shop just in case and every machine has safety glasses hanging on them.
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  backbencher

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Posted: July 23 2016 at 12:49am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Biker, there's a joke there somewhere, but I can't quite nail it. Would've like to have watched you get down - but I guess you would've liked to have been watching yourself get down...
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  UKBiker

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Posted: July 23 2016 at 3:32am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

It is the only time that I have injured myself and been really quite scared about the outcome, all the motorcycle wrecks and broken bones have never really bothered me, but being blind was terrifying.
Fumbling my way round the scaffold using the handrails until I found the ladders and climbed down took me about 10 minutes getting down 6 ladders was challenging to say the least.
I had the sense to carry one of the twin tube containers with me so the Doctor would see what the chemicals were.
I didn't get really scared by it until I was on the ground and the enormity set in.

I could handle being in a wheelchair from the waist down but I don't know if I could cope with blindness very well.
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  backbencher

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Posted: July 24 2016 at 12:26am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

It would just make motorcycling that much more exciting.
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: July 24 2016 at 8:08pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

I turned my attention to the fire control group today. The top portions of the grip assembly widen-out and are embossed with ribs and other features. I decided to put a blank panel in this area, later to be laminated with another panel that has the stampings in them. The main reason for this is I was having some trouble working-out the geometry, so if the final set-up looked bad, it would get a clean veneer to hide any gross blemishes.

I haven't done so yet, but I plan on making the hammer and trigger pins with grooves that align with the inside walls and using a Shepard's crook wire to retain. I borrowed this idea from the AR setups on my MP40 build and it works well. The panels that will be laminated together (spot welds) will have circular pressings so I can insert stainless steel washers to beef-up the pin end-points and will be harder than just mild steel.

Here's a photo with the right side panel welded on, and you can also see the piece of flat bar I used to hammer form them. I made the right side first, then trimmed the hammer form for the safety lever clearance, and then hammer formed the left side.




I wanted to wait to weld the left side until both sides were aligned and I had the geometry solved. I used steel spacers. I tried to determine where the ribs for the second panel would be because I plan to leave these spacers in there for lateral support. I had drilled a hole for one toward the top, but it interferes with the lower part of the receiver a tad.




Here are the mods I made to the AK FCG. For the hammer, I moved the strike face out and up. It worked out quite by stupid luck that it will hit the firing pin squarely, yet not ).interfere with the disconnector (it rests just above it). For the trigger, I just needed to cut the original tang off and weld on one that matched the necessary geometry. This step took the longest as minute movement had big effect.




Here is the assembly held together temporarily with drill bits as pins, de-cocked.




And cocked...



And here it is fitted to the receiver clam-shelled open...




I haven't fashioned the safety yet, but it appears I have a lot space and opportunities in the region. Also, I think I'm going to add the selective-fire switch as well, since it is so unusual to the Stg44, but of course it will have no function.

I still have a lot of work to do, but it just dawned on me that I have all parts of this build at least started, if not functional. Most of the work left to do is cosmetic. As for the finish, I love rust blue, but most photos I have seen of original Stg44s looked fairly washed-out. I think I could get the same effect with a careful application of cold bluing. A finish like that along with some imperfect cosmetic issues may lend itself to a certain authentic look. What do you guys think?

-Ken
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  maxx

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Posted: July 25 2016 at 11:11am | IP Logged Quote maxx

very nice work
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  UKBiker

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Posted: July 26 2016 at 2:16pm | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Absolutely stunning work, I was excited about this one after seeing the MP40, and I ain't been disappointed.
You skills are amazing, I can't wait to see it in action.
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  cabal2600

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Posted: August 02 2016 at 10:44pm | IP Logged Quote cabal2600

Nice work Vintagemx,
However sometimes better to stick with all original STG44 parts that been unmodified,the gun designed in one and one factory way only and shouldn't be altered no matter what any type of BATFE assholes say or not,this is all little kid and daddy play nothing more..
You did your own work and it suits you very well......

I personaly won't go altering original STG44 into semi BS crap,it isn't righteous to rebuild master piece into sh*t..


STG44's cost lot's of money and any replacement parts is super hard to find by,I very impressed how you curved gas block and gas tube,those parts not easy to find....
Original STG44 barrels is rare,very hard to find original Erma made STG44 barrels in intact shape and unrottened.....

MY STG44 project sitting half in grease and other half required surface cosmetical job but mechanicly it is 85-95 % functional...
Bolt was pain to repair and align,carrier about 75% good and other end tail missing...
gas pistons in excellent shape,other bolt need serious cosmetical repair..
Replacemant parts like rear sight and dust cover was hard to locate at decent price,USA have rip off prices for those parts but in Europe they relatively cheap including shipping....
End cap work in progress,trigger housing cleaned from rust and partly repaired,it was long ago I bought STG44 parts...
I keep it everything apart though,barrel original German WW2 95-100% complete and undamaged including waffen amths and markings....
Everything stripped apart,the only things that damaged severely is springs,magazine catch spring rottened and it not big deal..
I call STG44 relic of WW2,it is very complicated in design and study,magazine have 2 guide rails inside for follower so it won't wobble..

Now the most real cookie everyone interested where to get good reliable strong magazine springs for STG44??

Answer is simple,get latest AR15/M16 magazine springs they provide better life span than original and would hold full capacity without any problems..
Those springs would save you lot of buck compare to original WW2 unreliable magazine springs...
About bottom plates,some could be bought some however should be self made science those not really hard parts to craft..

Vintagemx0,
Need your advise how to make STG44 rear sight adjuster housing,original rottened out and intent to fix it fails because german steel have sulphur additive and make hard to repair...
How would you make that small part in original WW2 rear sight specs??
As I see there 2 tubes connected together,spot welded by tig than dremeled..
My welder machine is work in progress and complicated in design,if anyone ever been introduced to Multiplaz 3500 than that basicly what I making....

So far I made 5 line torch cable which consist of 2 power lines for 350 volts and 5 Amperes,2 22 volt lines for thermo resistor and one ground line......
Thermo regulating circuit board near finished except 2 things induction coil and contact relay..
Rather than build very complicated transformer which unreliable and could cost shortage 2 transformers been found one for primary torch secondary auxiliary for boost cutting or welding performances.....

Majority of components available including 2 multimeters which is volt and amp meter for 600 volt DC maximum support..
Transformers make 256 and 240 volts,they connect to rectifying diode bridge which than outfit to capacitor to generate 350 volt DC at 5 Amperes,Multiplaz is suck compare to original designs that been post online and only have 2.3 Amperes power versus 5 Amperes...

Micro plasma welder or cutter can replace everything at one time like acetylene torch,mig welder,tig welder,arc welder (with auxiliary water cooling),plasma torch....

The only thing it need distilled water or air for cutting or diluted alchohol or helium for welding...

For thicker metals and alloys it is advised that water cooling enabled to prevent overheating of torch...
The 22 volts is need for thermal sensor that attached on torch and actuate 2 big cooling fans through thermal board..
The plasma welder machine have 2 safety fuses,one on thermal board and next on main power line to prevent over voltage..
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  northumbrian

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Posted: August 03 2016 at 12:42am | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

I go silent for a few weeks and someone goes and builds StG44

Nice work
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: August 09 2016 at 12:02am | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

cabal2600 - I haven't been working on my project much these last few weeks, but coincidentally, I have started in on my rear sight. I just studied photos and tried to implement a similar thing, but I used an AK rear sight leaf and base mounted on top of a raised section of the panel that goes over the receiver.

This shot is of the yet to be welded rear sight block with AK sight resting on top of receiver. I have also began experimenting with a dust cover...




Base of rear sight welded and rough-blended. I drilled holes and welded 6-32 nuts inside first to receive AK rear sight assembly...




The AK sight base was slightly modified (ground down) and holes were drilled to mount it to the sight base on the receiver with 6-32 screws...




Here is a shot with the AK sight leaf installed...




And here is the current condition of the receiver.



As always, I have a lot of clean-up to do on everything. I have limited time lately, but I am going to try to spend 30 - 60 minutes in the evenings this week to sort of whittle on some of this clean-up. The over-all quality of this build have a lot to be desired, but if it looks somewhat realistically "aged", I'll be happy with it.

-Ken
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  cabal2600

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Posted: August 09 2016 at 6:44am | IP Logged Quote cabal2600

I see,
Seems like you been going through hell to get this project accomplished.....
This is not easy to build everything from scratch,is gas tube easily removable from your MP44??
In original STG44 gas tube removes with barrel and gas block all together....
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  UKBiker

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Posted: August 09 2016 at 10:38am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

"The overall quality of this build leaves a lot to be desired" I doth protest sir, I think you do yourself a great injustice.

This build is simply incredible the quality is amazing especially given the basic tools you are using.

I can't wait to see it finished and being fired
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  cabal2600

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Posted: August 09 2016 at 7:40pm | IP Logged Quote cabal2600

Good for you,
I still prefer original design anyway,you would really impress somebody if you would design something that not exist yet...
No offence but you just redesign already existed showel with little modification of your own...
My project only need some cosmetical makeup,nothing more,however it is original German WW2 parts not a replica or repro..

The only things I won't originaly used is springs which to replace extractor spring,recoil spring,magazine catch spring and magazine springs with good quality repro which is wear and tear resistant...


Like in my previous MP44 topic I already advised use latest AR15/M16 magazine springs which could be purchased at Numrich,those springs are way better than expansive WW2 low quality material made...
How could you make cheaper STG44 magazines??

Simple,Buy airsoft STG44 magazines and cut them at spot welded areas,trim extra material off like sudjest on blueprints and don't forget make guide lines for follower at front,after that everything get spot weld again..
Bottom areas have to be cut and bend according to blueprint dimensions so bottom floor plate would slide and locks correctly..
Science airsoft magazines made out of steel they can transform into original dimensions and function exactly as is....

I bought 2 of those and remade them to original specses,they slide into housing area without problems just like original ones...
Your magazine is very complicated and honestly that is only part I won't waste my time on..
Another way to make magazines through stamping dies as original factory method..
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: August 09 2016 at 10:51pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

cabal2600 - Yes, I too would like to have a real Stg44, but the $$$ it would take and the $$$ for the ammo are out of my league. I just enjoy working with steel, so choosing things to replicate is just fine for me. I'm learning a lot by doing so, and perhaps someday I will take on a project with some innovation or more in kind with what it is I'm trying to replicate. Right now, I am bound by my own abilities.

It still has a long way to go, but from a short distance, it is beginning to look like what inspired me to do this build...



-Ken
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  cabal2600

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Posted: August 09 2016 at 11:13pm | IP Logged Quote cabal2600

Ok,
Iam however always tried to build something that not even exist yet,however certain materials are pain to find or too expansive...
Lot of ideas but low on materials and machinery,certain things required to have metal melting factory,if I would have lot of money I would open some jobs as well so others can earn money too..
This is the problem we have in USA high unemployment and cosmic prices everywhere,this is what capitalism had created..
Thanks to Bill Clinton Americans have no jobs at those days,however our enamies Chinese have all the benefits and now playing horns with everyone in world....

This might look out of topic term but in meanwhile think what we experience with firearm restrictions at those days,capitalist crooks play a whimbs anyhow they want and peoples are afraid and obaying illusive fake rules which would do nothing but anchor desolation in USA..
Rotten politics that allow pharmaceutical and food corporations dump any toxin or virus in food or pain killers,the worst thing that FDA generously approves it even despite of numerous lawsuits....

Are we ever going to make any progress in USA besides rebuilding STG44's or we lay down forever as slaves to illusive system???
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  vintagemx0

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Posted: August 19 2016 at 10:05pm | IP Logged Quote vintagemx0

I received my bill from the eye clinic today, and one of the line items was "removal of foreign object". Since I was working on my receiver at the time of the accident, does this mean that this part is not 922(r) compliant?

Bwahhh haaa   

-Ken
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  cabal2600

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Posted: August 20 2016 at 11:37am | IP Logged Quote cabal2600

Well obviously you should wear eye protection at all times,second you should avoid exposure to welding machine....

I had eye problem 3 times,when you use dremel or grinders always use eye protection goggles,certain materials have very fine sparks meaning very tiny particles can ruin your eyes and damage eye tissue..

I had 2 times tiny metal fragments removed and third rust....
Eye doctors use tiny needles to remove whatever stocked in your eye tissue,first they soak your eye with special droplets than using very strong electronic magnifying glass would see any exposed particles and use tiny needle to pry those fragments out like using craw bar to pry nails out...

Welding machine is another story,most of times is not the light or spark would cost you arch eye but the shielding gas or coating on welding rods,when welding shielding gas get react with welded area also smoking out of hot metal,if it hit your eye area than later they would each or burn over night time mostly...

You need to wash your eyes frequently with worm water,most important you need to keep your eyes covered with wet blanket and avoid light,than problem goes away.....

I been through those troubles several times,sometimes you weld a pipe in hard reach area where mask not fit but in same time you need very high accuracy..
I guess nothing comes out good without sacrifices...

This is unfortunate but exact how life works,neather you risk certain things or you won't see or achieve anything good at all...

Life is infinite struggle,battle and sacrifice if we see certain events or achievements been done in history...

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  Zuzzy

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Posted: August 20 2016 at 5:29pm | IP Logged Quote Zuzzy

Regarding the FCG, did you ever think of g3 route, with insertable drop in fcg?
Something the "repro" stg44 guys are doin, from HM (although they fcked up the ribs, so looks kinda unnatural)

I reckon its easier if you screw up something that way, than to realign the holes on this original style setu.
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  bikergunnut

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Posted: August 20 2016 at 10:18pm | IP Logged Quote bikergunnut

I had a wire from a wire wheel stick dead center in a pair of safety glasses. They stayed on a shelf as a reminder to all.........
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  UKBiker

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Posted: August 21 2016 at 11:48am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

bikergunnut wrote:
I had a wire from a wire wheel stick dead center in a pair of safety glasses. They stayed on a shelf as a reminder to all.........


That is quite frightening to say the least, and just goes to show how easily something can damage your eyes, I wear safety glasses for anything that may cause something to be sent towards my eyes, even topping up batteries.
I had a valve collet on a 1975 GL1000 Goldwing motor I was rebuilding fly out and bounce off my cheek, another half an inch higher and that would have hit me in the eye.
I never found the collet and ended up having to make a new one on my Logan lathe rather than wait days for a new one to be found so I could get the thing back together, it was the first time I have ever turned a taper on it.
Cutting it in half was the tricky part.

Ken your build is looking fantastic, your sheet metal skills are amazing, I'm really excited to see you get it all finished.
Are you going to blue the thing? I think bluing would look better than Ceracote, but I know it can become a little patchy on welded areas.

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