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Making a gas block adjustable
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  Paraquat

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Posted: April 14 2016 at 8:17am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat



I want to make my lightweight gas block into an adjustable type.
The only cross sectional view of an adjustable gas block I've been able to find is this. I haven't purchased a commercial one, as I've made my own out of aluminum.

In my head, this looks pretty straight forward. Just put a tapered set screw in the lower hole like a needle valve in a carburetor?
Right?
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  Paraquat

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Posted: April 14 2016 at 1:10pm | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

Apparently so.



https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1022743



http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.nz/f15/diy-adjustable-gas -block-14902/

I guess a lot of my apprehension comes from a lo-pro gas block being 25 but an adjustable being 80? Seems simple enough.
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  backbencher

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Posted: April 14 2016 at 8:01pm | IP Logged Quote backbencher

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  Sagittarii

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Posted: April 16 2016 at 9:54pm | IP Logged Quote Sagittarii

Unfortunately I still cant upload anything.
A possibility is a simple push button selector like the safety on many rifles.

Small hole in the middle
Large to one side
Blank to the other

This would allow larger port for fouling a cut off for Grenade Launching. Easy to make a couple of screw on end caps with a small wire spring to lock each shift or just a friction fit possibly flattened on the end caps to prevent rotation against the sight rib
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  northumbrian

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Posted: April 17 2016 at 3:14pm | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

The trouble with using a grub screw to adjust gas flow. is with continuous firing, it can come loose and fall out.

One method to create an adjustable gas block, is make a screw from a standard stainless steel hex head screw.

Turn the tip to a rounded off point.
Then turn a groove, near the base of the hex head, wide enough for an old hacksaw blade to fit.

The hacksaw blade is then screwed to the gas block, with the screw far enough away from the hex head screw, to allow for some adjustment travel.
At the end of the day the gas screw only needs to screw in and out a couple of mm for it work.

The hacksaw blade, stops the screw fro falling out, by applying a small amount of tension upon the screw threads.

There are plenty of other ways to do it, but this is probably the cheapest way to get a secure gas adjustment.

Personally I'd do a more refined screw, but with a similar method of securing it.
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  UKBiker

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Posted: April 17 2016 at 3:21pm | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

What about having a small spring under the head of the screw like a pilot mixture screw used on a carburetor?
That would provide enough tension to prevent the screw from coming out
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  northumbrian

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Posted: April 17 2016 at 3:26pm | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

UKBiker wrote:
What about having a small spring under the head of the screw like a pilot mixture screw used on a carburetor?
That would provide enough tension to prevent the screw from coming out


That would be a more refined method, but would require some rather careful boring of the gas block, to allow for the spring to seat correctly, and give enough adjustment but not fall out.

But you'd still need a means of stopping the gas screw from being withdrawn too far in error.
Having an external spring, that you can see helps in that department.
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  UKBiker

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Posted: April 18 2016 at 2:21am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

An internal circlip would prevent the screw from being withdrawn and would be fairly easy to implement during machining
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  northumbrian

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Posted: April 18 2016 at 2:48am | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

Have you tried cutting a groove for an M6 grub screw
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  Paraquat

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Posted: April 18 2016 at 8:23am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

I've made "locking anti-rotational" set screws by gripping on the outside with a pair of vise grips before.

Most of the designs I've seen use another set screw to lock the adjustment set screw.



Another idea would be a jam set screw.
It works like a jam nut to lock the original nut. Only set screw to lock the set screw.

Grub.
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  northumbrian

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Posted: April 18 2016 at 9:38am | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

Yup that'll work
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  UKBiker

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Posted: April 19 2016 at 2:34am | IP Logged Quote UKBiker

Tap the hole to use an M6 grub screw then counterbore the outer portion of the hole and tap to M8, then add an M8 with a flat screwdriver slot with an M6 hole through it and Loctite and stake the M8 into place to prevent the M6 coming out whilst allowing an allen key through to adjust it. Better than trying to machine a circlip groove
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  Paraquat

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Posted: April 20 2016 at 8:19am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

I have been hearing good things about the Faxon pencil barrels.

Quote:
And that’s the Achilles heel of this barrel; heat. It’s really a function of physics that thinner barrels will heat up faster than thicker ones. When the Faxon pencil barrel heats up, the groupings expanded from roughly 1.5 MOA to 4.25 MOA with M855 and to 3 MOA with 55gr. This isn’t really bothersome, but the barrel does heat up fast.

On the flip-side, a thinner barrel will cool faster.

http://tacticalgunreview.com/faxon-firearms-16-ss-pencil-bar rel-initial-impressions/

If I'm going to continue this silly notion I really should be posting in my lightweight AR thread...

My concern now becomes this - if I save 20 ounces on the barrel, how much of that do I replace by not being able to run a carbine heatshield but having to switch to a midlength heatshield?


https://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=3&f=12&t=66 0604&page=1

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  backbencher

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Posted: April 20 2016 at 10:20am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Para, if you use a lightweight free-float handguard, there's no need for midlength handguards - handguards don't have to go all the way to the gas block. The handguard is over the gas tube for bayonet drill only.

Faxon has a very good reputation - my brother's got one of their bbls and is quite happy w/ it, I believe.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: April 20 2016 at 11:31am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat


3d milled designs...



Braided CF tubes...

I can't keep up with my old Bridgeport.
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  northumbrian

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Posted: April 20 2016 at 12:06pm | IP Logged Quote northumbrian

Paraquat wrote:
I can't keep up with my old Bridgeport.


I know what you mean, I'm toying with the idea of dabbling with the dark arts, and getting  one of those witchcraft infused CNC thingy's
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