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Making a 9x19mm barrel from scratch.
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  azotas

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Posted: February 18 2018 at 5:06am | IP Logged Quote azotas

Hi maybe someone knows what kind of drill bit and reamer i should use to make a barrel bore? at first i would like to drill the hole and then to ream it to appropriate size.After that i would use barrel button to make rifling. Thanks.
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  Sora-tobu chiru

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Posted: February 18 2018 at 10:32am | IP Logged Quote Sora-tobu chiru

That depends.
If you use fresh drill bit, and have little runout, you can try 8.8 milimetre(it is quite popular size, used before G1/8 tap).
That should give you 8.82 - 8.85 required in lands(practically no need for reaming, after all it isn't carbine/rifle barell - or is it? ).

Making grooves and chamber(unlike 380ACP, 9luger isn't cylindrical) is entirely different matter.

ps. if You want to, I can post some drawings/photos of how "makeshift" Sten barells were rifled with nothing more than simple screw press and slightly regrinded 9 milimetre reamer(with helical swarf grooves).
End product was more durable and gave better accuracy than contemporary british one
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  Zupi

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Posted: February 23 2018 at 3:36am | IP Logged Quote Zupi

Sora-tobu chiru wrote:
That depends.
If you use fresh drill bit, and have little runout, you can try 8.8 milimetre(it is quite popular size, used before G1/8 tap).
That should give you 8.82 - 8.85 required in lands(practically no need for reaming, after all it isn't carbine/rifle barell - or is it? ).

Making grooves and chamber(unlike 380ACP, 9luger isn't cylindrical) is entirely different matter.

ps. if You want to, I can post some drawings/photos of how "makeshift" Sten barells were rifled with nothing more than simple screw press and slightly regrinded 9 milimetre reamer(with helical swarf grooves).
End product was more durable and gave better accuracy than contemporary british one


Instead of driling&reaming you could purchase a gundrill, which should according to the manufacturers of these gundrills give the correct bore dimensions and bore surface quality without the need for reaming.

Maybe the original Sten barrels were cut-rifled and were therefore softer and less durable than button-rifled barrels (button rifling is known to increase the hardness of the metal).

It would be nice if you could post some photos of your improvised rifling button and the quality of the rifling. The information about the necessary force to push the button through would be nice. I am also interested if the reamer was coated with TiN or similar as to prevent the sticking of the metal to the button (which is probably the main reason for rough rifling surface or even stalling of the button).
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  BretJohnson

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Posted: February 23 2018 at 4:58am | IP Logged Quote BretJohnson

That was very informative. Thanks, Sora-tobu chiru!
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  azotas

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Posted: February 24 2018 at 4:35am | IP Logged Quote azotas

according to saami drawings it should be 8.79 and c.i.p 8.82...i guess it doesnt make a big difference after all.any ways thanks for replies.
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  Sora-tobu chiru

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Posted: February 24 2018 at 5:26pm | IP Logged Quote Sora-tobu chiru

Zupi wrote:
Maybe the original Sten barrels were cut-rifled and were therefore
softer and less durable than button-rifled barrels (button rifling is
known to increase the hardness of the metal).<br><br>It would be nice if
you could post some photos of your improvised rifling button and the
quality of the rifling. The information about the necessary force to
push the button through would be nice. I am also interested if the
reamer was coated with TiN or similar as to prevent the sticking of the
metal to the button (which is probably the main reason for rough rifling surface or even stalling of the button).


Definitely not mine

I wouldn't be surprised if they used regular HSS or even carbon steel tools(as it was during nazi occupation).

Will try to organize some beer and visit neighbours(they got nice scanner) soon.
In a meantime You could try to dig through those old topics at homegunsmith(that is if You can withstand crappy pictures quality and some butt ugly "engrish").

First method is push through(cutting), and second "dragging"(also cutting).
There is no forced rotation, shape of cutter is giving proper twist rate.

http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST ;f=1;t=19137

http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST ;f=1;t=19141
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“I believe when you become an engineer, and they teach you the disciplines, you learn that one and one make two, and that you have to do it this way because this is what the book says to do, I think it prevents you from becoming a true designer. If I sometimes knew what the engineering math was on some of my designs before going all the way through with them, I probably would’ve quit earlier.”

Eugene M. Stoner
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  azotas

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Posted: March 03 2018 at 2:36am | IP Logged Quote azotas

maybe someone could tell me, how thin the barrel walls should be ?so i dont hurt myself. i know there are 410 shotgun adapters for 9mm luger round, how come they dont blow up ? i read somewhere that the barrel walls should be 2/3 of the round diameter.
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  ds1948

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Posted: March 04 2018 at 6:45pm | IP Logged Quote ds1948

Look up Barlow's formula. All you need is the ultimate tensile strength of the steel you want to work with. Also depending on how technologically inclined you are, you could use ECM to cut the barrel and rifling.
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  Sora-tobu chiru

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Posted: March 05 2018 at 3:47am | IP Logged Quote Sora-tobu chiru

You must consider some additional things, like how barrel is attached to frame.
Most important(in case of fast burning pistol/shotgun powders) is chamber area, if it is supported/shrouded like in makarow or walter pp, it can be much thinner that one in baby browning or rak smg.
2/3 seems too much even for soft materials like 12L14(maybe except for chamber area and/or +P loads).
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“I believe when you become an engineer, and they teach you the disciplines, you learn that one and one make two, and that you have to do it this way because this is what the book says to do, I think it prevents you from becoming a true designer. If I sometimes knew what the engineering math was on some of my designs before going all the way through with them, I probably would’ve quit earlier.”

Eugene M. Stoner
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