I had the same problem with my build, I tried grinding off some of the bottom of the bolt but got so ticked off at the process I ended up looking like this!!

 

 

 

 

 

Another 41 lives. Just got finished with mine using the #4 kit from WLA. Using the trigger and bolt modification from WLA slipped right in after welding the lower receiver block. Had to file here and there to get the bolt and hammer sliding smooth.
Receiver lock in place as if it was factory. I must have lucked out after hearing all the other nightmares with this build. Took it out with a full clip and one with 2 shells in it and presto it took the two perfect. The bolt hit dead center on both. Stuck the full clip in and fired off 8 rounds before I had a miss fire. The primer was smacked dead center but never fired. Cleared the breech and fired the remainer one after another with no hic cup. Boy is this a sweet shooting gun. I love it!!!! I used the old cut bolt WLA gave as a hammer and their spring. Now I need to see if I want to paint or park.
What looks the best?? Here is a couple pictures of my 41.

1916holton wrote: I had the same problem with my build, I tried grinding off some of the bottom of the bolt but got so ticked off at the process I ended up looking like this!!

What?  you changed shirts?   

Very funny Gary!

 

1916holton wrote: Very funny Gary!

what can I say...  I'm in a strange mood today... 

Nitegunner,


im very happy that you got yours up and running!! ive been waiting to
hear that from you. they are sweet and now you can start another one
and do a hamer version to compare and play with the 2!!!!

dutigaf wrote: Nitegunner, im very happy that you got yours up and running!! ive been waiting to hear that from you. they are sweet and now you can start another one and do a hamer version to compare and play with the 2!!!!

I need to check out the other hammer. I have a tighter spring that I got from Dan Diesel. I just want to try it with the original first. I cut the firing pin down to the 1/6" exposed on the hammer side and that works great.   

NG,

you are using a "striker" set up.  think you got that from me didnt you?? if you mean check out the other striker like MB makes...  it made a real difference in my gun, even though it was working fine with my homemade striker....

the hammer fired gun is totally different.  it uses a sks trigger group with a full length bolt instead of the cut type.  so far it has been really impressive to say the least.

When and or if you use mine or a striker with a longer form, you will have to take some length off the rear metal buffer spring retainer. Plus, you won't need such a long spring.

1/16 inches is a tab bit short. 3/32 won't rupture the primers.

Now you need to work out a BEER deal for PARKING.

dutigaf wrote: NG,<br><br>you are using a "striker" set up. think you got that from me didnt you?? if you mean check out the other striker like MB makes... it made a real difference in my gun, even though it was working fine with my homemade striker....<br><br>the hammer fired gun is totally different. it uses a sks trigger group with a full length bolt instead of the cut type. so far it has been really impressive to say the least.<br>

I'm using what you sent me. I meant striker instead of hammer. So that's why you wanted my new bolt! I have a SKS trigger group but plan on using it on my Beretta 38A. They are hard to find for some reason. Is it working better than your homemade striker setup?

Musibike wrote: When and or if you use mine or a striker with a longer form, you will have to take some length off the rear metal buffer spring retainer. Plus, you won't need such a long spring.<br> <br> 1/16 inches is a tab bit short. 3/32 won't rupture the primers.<br> <br> Now you need to work out a BEER deal for PARKING.<br>

Just measured the rear pin again.It's .083 and seems to be okay. Did you make any extra strikers? The original is working but a needs more meat to it. I've got another kit to build so I'll need a striker and firing pin. Did you change the firing pin any? Will WLA sell just the pins?

If I can get the dam store to work I'll park myself. If not how may beers.   

Edited by Nitegunner

I took a bit too much off of my first firing pin. So, I took it over and dropped a bit of steel back onto it with my TIG machine. Used a roto-sander to shape it and readjust it on the back end.

WLA buys the firing pins. If he won't sell you one maybe he can tell you where he gets those from.

Nitegunner wrote: Musibike wrote: When and or if you use mine or a striker with a longer form, you will have to take some length off the rear metal buffer spring retainer. Plus, you won't need such a long spring.<br> <br> 1/16 inches is a tab bit short. 3/32 won't rupture the primers.<br> <br> Now you need to work out a BEER deal for PARKING.<br> Just measured the rear pin again.It's .083 and seems to be okay. Did you make any extra strikers? The original is working but a needs more meat to it. I've got another kit to build so I'll need a striker and firing pin. Did you change the firing pin any? Will WLA sell just the pins? If I can get the dam store to work I'll park myself. If not how may beers.