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trickyrick's pps43 build
Weaponeer Forums : PPS43

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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 1:43am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 2:10am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 2:39am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 2:53am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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  trenches

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 5:23pm | IP Logged Quote trenches

Don't give up on Omega. I've ordered from in the past and was never disappointed. The last thing I ordered from him was a Bren barrel.  It's like new and the bore is perfect.  And it was cheaper then some other vendors wanted.
Sorry, I forgot.  I have some Bren barrel nuts coming from him.  Should be here next week.  Did you try e-mailing him.  I've always received a prompt reply from him.
BTW, your build is looking damn good.  Good work.
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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 6:17pm | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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  trenches

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Posted: October 02 2008 at 8:01pm | IP Logged Quote trenches

Have you decided what you want to use for a fcg.  I went the non-traditional but easier route of using a Rem. 742 fcg. BTW, you'll want to use a buffer.  I made one from a rubber floor tile that is used in exercise rooms.  It was 5/16" thick IIRC. Works good. I'm using the original spring and have not had any problems at all.
Kep up the good work and pretty soon you'll be blasting away with a resurrected PPS-43.
Don't be afraid of using mil-surp ammo.  I use it all the time.  Just rinse the bore out with hot water or Ballistol mixed with water.  It's not any more difficult than regular cleaning.  I shoot corrosive ammo out of all my Russian firearms, my PSL, and out of the K-98.   Even shoot it out of my semi MG-42.
I've been using Romanian mil-surp in the PPS-43.  Has the advantage of selling the empty cases for scrap. 
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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 12:02am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 12:10am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

i meant recess in the top of bolt body. thanks for the encouragement. i kinda felt alone here. i know i'm new and might not have introduced myself properly but i've been lurking for awhile. thats why i decided to build this. from watching all the other builds.
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  trenches

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 4:25am | IP Logged Quote trenches

The ammo you described is Bulgarian.  I have shot that and it shoots ok. There is some Bulgarian that is supposed to have KB'd some Cz-52 pistols but I forgot which date stamp.  Do yourself a favor and buy some of the Romanian ammo.  I haven't had any trouble with that stuff. 
Have you tried to insert the barrel with the extension yet.  Due to the length of the barrel, you might have difficulty getting it in with the rear of the receiver still on.  I know I can't pull mine out even if I wanted to.  The longer length of the barrel won't allow the barrel to clear the rear of the receiver.  Thought I'd pass that along.
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  dcorb

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 5:58am | IP Logged Quote dcorb

I am impressed with your work. That was one nasty demill on that kit. You are doing a great job bringing it back to life. And as I am also building my kit I am really interested in your build as I still have to decide on a FCG and figure out how to mod the bolt.
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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 9:09am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

trenches, i cannot get my barrel in with trunnion mounted...so i was going to support rivet between barrel, through trunnion, install as one and weld the rivet, then shape. dcorb, my bolt mods will be typical of most builds. drill 3/16 hole through...yada yada yada. i think i will try ejector as firing pin holder like original, just cut a small recess in pin at that area. thanks for looking, rick
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  trenches

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 12:52pm | IP Logged Quote trenches

That's what I did to hold the firing pin in place.  I duplicated the detent of the original pin onto the new firing pin.  It worked out very well.  And easier than drilling another hole in the bolt.  Just make sure you make the detent long enough to allow the firing pin to move forward. 
And make sure you polish the pin and the hole to eliminate binding.  I had to make my own firing pin spring because I couldn't find one that would fit in the firing pin hole.  After a few attempts I found the right diameter and length. You can get spring material from Brownells if you don't already have any.

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  dcorb

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 7:22pm | IP Logged Quote dcorb

trickyrick wrote:
trenches, i cannot get my barrel in with trunnion mounted...so i was going to support rivet between barrel, through trunnion, install as one and weld the rivet, then shape. dcorb, my bolt mods will be typical of most builds. drill 3/16 hole through...yada yada yada. i think i will try ejector as firing pin holder like original, just cut a small recess in pin at that area. thanks for looking, rick


3/16" ?
That seems big. Do you use a insert on the bolt face? I guess I need to study up on this.
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  trickyrick

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Posted: October 03 2008 at 9:00pm | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

dcorb, i'm basing that on the other builds i have read about.  then tap fp hole with a #5 bolt into front of bolt for a bushing.  then cut of excess of #5 bolt and mill flat and drill fp tip hole in it. some make a bushing and press it in.
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Posted: October 05 2008 at 2:18am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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Posted: October 05 2008 at 3:06am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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Posted: October 05 2008 at 3:25am | IP Logged Quote trickyrick

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Posted: October 05 2008 at 9:03am | IP Logged Quote trenches

Looks like your build is coming along nicely.  Good work.  BTW my firing pin is a 2 diameter pin.  The front half is the same as the diameter of the original pin while the rear half is larger.  I did this so that I could have a spring bearing against the step in the firing pin.  The hole in the bolt is also of a 2 diameter type.
The larger hole starts back at a point from the recoil rod retainer lug hole determined by guesswork.  The larger hole was deep enough to enclose the firing pin spring between the step on the rear end of the pin and the step on the smaller hole. The hole in the bolt face was bushed and then I pinned the bushing in place to keep it from being pushed out by the firing pin.
I had the nose of the pin made longer so I could trim it to the correct length after everything was together. The nose of the firing pin is the same diameter as the original pin. I also had the rear of the pin made long enough to trim.  After the fcg was installed then I could trim the end to the correct projection from the rear of the bolt. BTW, the pin is O-1 drill rod.
Don't forget to drill a clearance hole in the lug that goes through the boit.  Otherwise you won't be able to insert your pin all the way.
Be careful about getting too close to the groove in the left side of the bolt when drilling the hole for the firing pin.
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  rocco1911

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Posted: October 05 2008 at 12:57pm | IP Logged Quote rocco1911

First it looks great second dont use #5 bolt its easyer to use buttonhead cap screws they work great third & no offense but I would not use the original set up to hold the FP in if the original FP can be inserted & retained you could be in for it   just drill a hole through the bolt & insert a roll pin + cut a channel in the FP to keep the FP in place down by the end of the bolt much safer than using original FP retainer If you need pics let me know.

I cant remember but its eigther 8/32 or 10/32 cap screws I used on the second one worked much better than drilling out the hole to a large diameter but they both work.

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