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Topics involving building a Beretta
Weaponeer Forums : Beretta 38A

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  weaponeer

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Posted: November 06 2004 at 11:35am | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

This section is for discussions involving the building of legal Semi-Auto weapons, and different possible techniques.

Got an idea or question?

 

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Posted: November 30 2004 at 11:10am | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

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Posted: January 27 2005 at 8:42am | IP Logged Quote Guests

Checkout www.prexis.com/sten/

There's 80% beretta receiver/lowers and a semi-auto concept design there.

 

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Posted: February 15 2005 at 2:41pm | IP Logged Quote Guests

Haven't had any luck finding any details on the internals, just the drawings for the receiver/lower build.

However, here is a sight that I foound that has quite a few Other drawings and starts with the "The .50-cal rifle construction manual" in pdf format.

http://www.thedisease.net/lib-armorer.html

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Posted: February 16 2005 at 12:38am | IP Logged Quote smoggle



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Posted: February 16 2005 at 1:01am | IP Logged Quote smoggle

Ok I just happened to be cleaning mine up and here is the layout of the parts. Minus reciever. The parts are shown in close approximation to their location. So

The first item to put in is the rear cap catch. It goes in the orientaion shown. Flat up on the back and the notch down on the front piece. The rear of the triggers engage the  notch.

Next put the two trigger springs into the rear of the receiver, in the trigger guard screw block. Then start both pins into one side plate. Not through just into the side. Then carefully slide the two triggers up and to the rear to compress springs. Line them up with the trigger pins. Usually the larger one (rear) is best to get in first. Once it is in push the smaller one in. This is the most frustrating part of the assembly. It may take a few times to get the darn thing right.

Next put the sear spring and plunger assembly into the foreward trigger guard screw block. Again put the pins into one side of the reciever. Push the sear up and foreward to compress the spring. Big pin in front small pin in back. Opposite the triggers.

Slide the safety in fromthe left side of the reciever.

The Ejector goes into the upper two holes and is held by two pins.

The mag catch has on pivot pin and a spring behind it.

I should not there is a pin missing in my diagram for the end cap plunger. It is smaller than the others and it goes through the round hole on the innermost piece and the slot on the other. This allows you to compress the plunger enough to rotate the cap off. I have found on most of the kits this small hole is usually gone due to the de-mil process. Also the spring pocket for the sear is not on the same part as the sear holes.

It is a rather clever set-up. If you can get the trigger group together you can see how the sear is actuated by the triggers. The sear spring allows the semi part of the sear to push into the sear as the trigger goes past. This allows the sear to pop back up and catch the bolt. The auto trigger contacts a solid portion of the sear and hold it down as long as it is depressed. If your sear spring pocket is not there,on the trigger guard block, you can kind of hold the spring into the pocket on the sear to see how the mechanism works.

Hope this helps.

 



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Posted: February 16 2005 at 1:08am | IP Logged Quote smoggle

Here are two variations of cocking handles I have. The one with the rounded handle is, I believe, an early one. While the more cylindrical one is a later one. The one in-the-white is one I made last night at work. There is also a picture of it in the slide channel. It fits nice. Now I know it has a socket head cap screw instead of a slotted screw and the knurl is larger but I was using what I had on hand. It works too.
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Posted: February 16 2005 at 8:39am | IP Logged Quote smoggle

Two I bought from inter Ordnance. I also got another 2 from a third party but they are similar to the first.
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Posted: February 18 2005 at 1:05am | IP Logged Quote smoggle

The two trigger springs are the same length. They fit into a pair of holes that lin up directly behind the triggers. There is also a spring pocket in the front trigger gaurd mounting block that faces rearward for the sear.

I will try and draw up a picture of it.

Oh, I also figured out what the notch int the end cap plunger does. The two protrusions on the back of the triggers engage the slot to keep the plunger from being compressed and the end cap, and bolt from hitting your cheek on its way over your shoulder while firing.

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Posted: February 18 2005 at 6:35am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

Thanks for the info smoggle, you have been a big help. I was wondering if they would let you put that info in the "Downloads" part of this site. It's very informative info.

Thsoe little spring indents in the lower reciever will probably have to be done by the person who buys them, unless jestism has already placed them there. And judging by his pictures (I haven't recieved my beretta 80% yet) he has done so much on them already we'll have to more then likely put them in there. I'll try to figure out a way yo get em in there. But then again if they can be placed in with out the indents (which I doubt they would stay in place) I guess that would work to.

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Posted: February 18 2005 at 6:53am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

AAAHHH, I see said the blind man, there is a hole drilled for the sear spring to slide into in the front of the lower trigger mechanism housing, it's not a indent at all. It goes in about a 1/4". Also for the trigger springs there are 2 holes side by side in the rear of the housing for them  about the same depth.

A 5/32 drill bit fits perfectly into these holes, but I dont see how they can be drilled using a drill, unless they are drilled at a angle. I wonder how they drilled these??. But I guess if your making a semi version of the weapon you wouldn't need the holes would you??

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Posted: February 18 2005 at 7:18am | IP Logged Quote Guests

The (2) holes for the trigger springs are drilled (you will have to drill the hole for the indent)
 
I did not have a point for reference for the front sear spring hole, though it could be drilled with a dremel that has a flex head adapter. (you would still get a slight angle)
 
If you can send me dim's for locating the sear spring hole, I can add it to future lowers...
 
I am pushing to get them all finished, labels printed, and packaged up today for shipment.


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Posted: February 18 2005 at 7:29am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

Okay sent you a email. I'll leave info for others here.

Well the blind man sees again, the front trigger guard screw block is pinned in. The hole measures from the bottom of the block to center of the sear spring hole, 6/16" . Jestisms trigger guard screw blocks are milled with the lower. So that's how the italians did it, pre driled then pinned in place, lol

 

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Posted: February 18 2005 at 7:53am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

I just went ahead and removed the pins from the front block and took it off of the torched reciever. I may rplace the front block on the new lower. I'l have to see how much trouble it will be trying to put the sear spring hole in the new lower or rplacing the new front block with the pinned version.

 

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Posted: February 20 2005 at 11:14pm | IP Logged Quote smoggle

Well this past Friday I drilled and milled my bolt. The sucker is hardend all the way through. Cobalt drills would not touch it. I had to use a solid carbide drill. Am going to try to use two parallel springs in place of the single. Also opened up the slot on the bottom to 1/2" to keep the original sear catch and firing pin lock, safety from being used. Will not have full length slot in bottom will kind of be reversed. The block will be in the bottom of the tube and the slot in the bolt. This will keep the original bolt from being introduced. So if it doesn't work I have scrapped a bolt. UGhhh. 3 left to work on.
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Posted: February 21 2005 at 7:54am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

 Tell me abut it, I tried doing some grinding on one of the bolts I have and, it really wears a stone down quick. As far as opening up the slot to 1/2" where as not using the sear or firing pin.  I was thining if you could still use the sear by modifying it where it would only be able to fire in semi mode, and not be able to remove the sear, or maybe even making a sear myself but modify it for only semi fire, and still mounting it in it's original place on the reciever, would this be legal? I was only going to originally make a display weapon but, after seeing all the effort jestism puts into his 80% recievers, and how well they could be made to make a live weapon. I think I'm going to go "semi" with tiis one. Might even go semi with my MK5 sten, and take it out of display also. and come to think of it, if they could be made to aomst original issue, i coulkd still use them as displays.
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Posted: February 21 2005 at 10:09am | IP Logged Quote smoggle

I would really be carefull with doing it that way. Because if you use the same locating holes the original part can be put back in and viola' machine gun. I suppose, and this is just a guess, you could use larger holes for the pivot pins but the actuation of the firing pin is still a sticky subject. I am going the AR trigger group route. I do not want to hear my kids talk about their daddy in jail with his new wife.

Amazing how easy it is to break the law and how hard it is to do this legally.

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Posted: February 22 2005 at 12:48am | IP Logged Quote smoggle

The key is to do a lot, and I mean a lot of drawing. Sketch it out. Double check measurements. Think how can this be wrong. Do this before you even start playing with the other parts. Know the law. OBEY the law. I enjoy the challenge of trying to figure out and make things work. That is why I love working with my hands. Sad thing is I have to get my other computer up and running. It has ACAD R14 and would greatly help me in figuring out the relationships of the parts. The less original parts you use sometimes the better.

So far on this build it looks like the barrel, stock, bolt, triggergaurd, end cap, front barrel band and rear sight are the only original parts I will use. Pain in the but but it is a fun challenge. 

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Posted: February 22 2005 at 7:36am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

I was reading on a website that BATF requires that there are so many "U.S. built parts" that you must have in order to be able to have a legal semi. This was for the AK kits. Would this also apply to the Beretta kits as well?
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