Got an idea or question?

Well, I've got 3 AMD-65 kits that I'm now starting to look into.  So, I've got a few questions, as I do not yet have any experience in building an AK.
Questions so far are:

1.  How do I get the gas piston off?  On two of the kits, I can see what looks like a pin that may be holding it in place (the 3rd, I don't see an obvious pin).  But, the TAPCO piston is threaded, with no hole for a pin.  Also, I can't seem to budge the pin with some pretty fair blows with a punch and hammer.

2. Is there a way to remove the barrel pin from the front trunnion/barrel assembly WITHOUT a shop press?

3.  Is there a way to remove and replace the barrel from the trunnion without a shop press?

4. What is the best way to 'reset' the headspace?  Two of my kits are matching numbers, and the headspace checks out fine (yes I used go/no-go gauges).  My third kit is mismatched and the bolt will NOT close on the Go gauge.

Thanks for any input...

Nodak try this:

1.  Drill out the pin in the piston and then punch it out.  Start small and work your way up if it still gives you problems.

2.  You can your bench vise.  Make your self some type of blocks either wood or steel with a hole in it for the pin to slide itself through.  On the other side use a bolt or some type of short punch and slowly tighten it up.  It might let loose with a bit of a pop but it will eventually let go.

3.  I use an I-bar clamp (heavy duty SOB).  You can use it to reinstall the barrel as well.

4.  Hmmmm..... the way that most people do this I think is to redrill  the barrel pin hole.  I've never done this so I'm not sure on the best way to go about it.  I would think that a finish reamer would also work but at the same time the chamber is probably chrome.  That could be a problem. 

Here is a great site to help you out.  It should answer most of your questions.

http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK/docs/construction/const ruction.htm

Man, I tried for over 2 hours last night to get that barrel pin out.  I have a big heavy vise, and all I was doing was BENDING 1/4 inch bolts.  Since the pin protrudes a few thousandths of and inch on each side, I figured I would finally 'win' by using a 3/8 bolt just to pop it free and then go back to the 1/4 to then push it out.  Using the vise, I got the 3/8 bolt to the point that I could NOT turn the vise handle anymore.  That pin would not budge!!!  The 3/8 bolt did not bend, but there is now a small indentation from the pin IN that 3/8 bolt.  All bolts used are Grade 5 BTW.

I'll have to try one of my other AMD's. 

Anyone else have that much trouble with the barrel pin???

I'm planning on a rivet build.  I don't have it worked out what I'm going to use as bucking bars yet, but I have the rivets and a air-gun.  I have yet to buy the rivet set punch for the airgun, but then again, I have a pointed bit that I could grind down and from a rivet punch from that.

I'm now considering that I may have to get a press.  12 ton from Grizzly $138 delivered...???

Harbor Freight usually has them on sale for around $100 if you have one close to you.  They are worth the money!

You should try the modified bolt cutters for the front and rear trunions.  You will still need a way to the trigger guard rivets but the jig for that is not very expensive.  Talk to Gary I think he has a lead on some inexpensive jigs (if you do get a shop press). 

Put it in your vise and on one side use a socket and the other side you will have to use another barrel pin. I suggest buying one to have on hand for this type of barrel pin removal.

I've picked up a plan for a 'build your own' 20 ton press.  My brother-in-law owns a business that manufactures farm equipment.  I'm seeing if he'll help me out with building the press. 

I do like the idea of having another barrel pin to use.  Those things must be $&^@ hard.  I don't want to drill them if I don't have to.  The one that is not correctly headspaces, I guess I wouldn't mind so much, but the ohter two are correct in their HS.

If I get that press built, those pins will 'pop' for sure

I'm now looking forward to try the vise trick on those new AKMS kits we signed up for

Im not trying to steal you away from this forum but if you have any questions pertaining to AK builds you are welcome to come over to gunco.net for answers. I have built 4 AMD kits from a flat receiver from tapco. 3 of them were screw builds and im working on another amd kit with an underfolder stock on it.(rivit build) And now Im waiting on my underfolder kit from here to start on. Cant wait to get it! I have the receivers heat treated and rails installed just waiting on kits. Wish I had more money.

you can get a set of headspace gauges. I can't remember where to buy them, I'm sure someone will post it soon.

I done one with masking tape on the end of a cartridge with a spent primer. 2 pieces of tape as no go and 1 piece of tape as go gauge it worked out good. it was about .004 between the bolt and the cartridge. but I would suggest getting a set of headspace gauges. don't want to be responsible for any damage to your gun or self.

You can get go and nogo gauges at either of these places.  I also have done the masking tape deal but I would never advise anyone esle to do it.  If you have a rare caliber or something like that then you might be ok but it just isn't a good idea. 

www.brownells.com

www.midway-usa.com

If you have a C&R you can get discounts from both of these places.  I think Brownells only gives a discount on the Forster gauges but Midway will give you a discount on everything.  Send a signed copy of your C&R and you will be able to check the discount prices online and they will also send you a catalog. 

BTW even if you don't like C&R guns it's a really good idea to get the license anyway.  The discounts alone will pay for the license fee (I think it's only $30 for 3 years).  If you can't afford that.............. then I have no idea why you would even surf this site.

in reply to a few questions raised here.

A press is a great tool, however even a press can mess things up quick! I have seen presses litteraly bend trying to press something out that should be easy.

That said, If you use a very short bolt in the vice and center it perfect and it wont budge use a hammer and tap the vice as the vibration will give you the needed start movement, you can then drift it out with a pin punch. To get out the barrel you would use a large brass rod to tap it out

the most important thing is to use brass or aluminum pieces to prevent marring the rifle pieces.

A great item for the shop is called an arbor press wich can be had cheap enough but shipping is the killer. It is bench mounted (sturdy bench please) I took a piece of brass and machined it to fit the top of the ram and when I encounter a stuborn pin I just give it a tap while holding presure

Drill with a center drill then punch out the pin. The ends are peened over to to prevent it from walking out. When you install the new piston notice how the old one was not screwed in all the way! This is to make the piston float to limit wear on the tube. Then attempt to line up the holes and drill thru and add new pin, peen over

Kits are in and arriving...

I am going to be doing a screw build on my first Romy AK and have see screw sets on the market. Pricing seems reasonable at around 10.00 for the set.. all metric of course.

Is there a one shop source for the screws, taps, bits?? .. just wondering