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How to make a fibre-glass rifle stock
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  dcorb

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Posted: August 03 2009 at 9:30pm | IP Logged Quote dcorb

Found this on the Homegunsmith site

How to make a .17 hmr Rifle Stock from fibre-glass

http://www.geocities.com/clive_seddon/17hmr.html

 

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  midmichigun

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Posted: August 03 2009 at 11:36pm | IP Logged Quote midmichigun

dcorb,

Good find!

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  soakandquench

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Posted: November 07 2010 at 8:07am | IP Logged Quote soakandquench

sadly as with many geocites pages, this one has gone the way of the doe-doe bird, anyone have a backup of the info?
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  Engelbert

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Posted: November 26 2010 at 5:19pm | IP Logged Quote Engelbert

soakandquench wrote:
sadly as with many geocites pages, this one has gone the way of the doe-doe bird, anyone have a backup of the info?


http://www.wildlifesculptures.co.nz/rifle_stock/index.html

When you come to a missing page like that, try putting the address into the Wayback Machine.  It goes back to 1996.
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  soakandquench

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Posted: December 20 2010 at 10:02pm | IP Logged Quote soakandquench

thank you englebert, this really takes the guesswork out of making your own fiberglass furniture
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  Sagittarii

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Posted: August 01 2011 at 4:32am | IP Logged Quote Sagittarii

Tried several ways to save this page all failed
You guys are suckers for punishment
Instructions incomplete
There has to be a better way
You can tell his specialty is outdoor sculptures
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  blurrededge

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Posted: August 31 2011 at 1:18pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

I re-read the pages again, and I still don't understand why he's doing certain things in certain ways... It seems that there would be an easier way then he presented them.

I was looking to make a custom sks stock for a possible new purchase... it might be easier to just get one of the chinese fiberglass stocks and then add to it... most of the work being already done. Any thoughts?
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  Sagittarii

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Posted: August 31 2011 at 2:14pm | IP Logged Quote Sagittarii

The easy way to do this would be carve a stock in balsawood (easy to work and sand or other light wood) or styrofoam (surfboard style).
Either round out barrel channel or cut a simple V for it, same for receiver area slightly oversize it for thickness & strength preferably then coat the whole thing in fibreglass. This will give internal strength and deaden the hollow sound if struck.
If the receiver area is loose recoat with fibreglass to fill it.
Finally use commercial barrel floating kit / mix for tight fit
I have only seen Fibre Glass used as car or boat parts in moulds.
That guys technique is completely bizzare. He may also talk with the Faries in his garden
Have a friend who carved a complete stock to measurements off my Anschutz .22 did a nice job first time out.
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  blurrededge

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Posted: August 31 2011 at 9:55pm | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

That was my thought, the exoskeletal fiberglass filled with a light yet very supportive structure (I read that a certain type of foam for marine use gets hard as a rock and is very light) would be alot easier than some wacky molds with dam's like that guy did.
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  Sagittarii

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Posted: September 01 2011 at 11:41am | IP Logged Quote Sagittarii

If you had a Surf shop nearby you could make a box and get them to inject foam for a block.
You could insert hardwood strips in butt & for sling studs
Suggested to friend while he griped about cutting receiver well.
He could make Aluminium block/s for mounting screws or make a full sized block to sit receiver in then drop it in a square cut out.
You could do that then do a fit up when ok fix in place then Glass the block in place while doing the stock like some upmarket stocks. It would guarantee perfect fit.
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  weaponeer

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Posted: September 01 2011 at 1:23pm | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

When I was a sponsored Motorcycle Roadracer (motorcycle grand prix) I had to build a new more aerodynamic rear cowling, and how I did it was extremely simple.

I built the item out of light poster board, that was just taped together to form the shape I wanted, and then started laying resin coated Fiberglas over the top of it. after a couple layers I sended it down so it was smooth, primed and painted it.

it was EXTREMELY tough, and survived a couple 100 mph crashes with not much more than a scratch.

The point is, I didn't know anything about how to do it, I didn't read any books, and that was before anything like that was on the internet. I just set out with an idea, made my form to cover and built it and it worked perfectly. so what I'm saying is give it a try, and you will find that your results are well worth the effort.

If I were to do it again today, I would use modeling clay for making hollow one sided forms (ak forearms), and foam shaped and sanded and covered to form the shape (which is how many light aircraft are made these days) and the foam ads added strength.  this makes for a very light stock.

If you have a cheap stock you don't mind destroying, just cut out the inlayed section for the action, and add that to your foam design so you don't need to inlay the fiberglass and/or foam.

If you want to modify your current stock to look more modern, or to include custom fitting designed just for you (such as a mold of your hand for the perfect finger grips, front and back), don't be afraid to take a hole saw to your stock to lighten it up, and/or reshape it to your liking, add foam to change it's shape and contours, amd then cover the whole stock in a light fiberglass.

If you want to get even more adventurous, you could cover it with denim, cotton, even camo cloth (as well as tin foil, mylar or nomex for added heat protection) for a custom Micarta stock.  just keep in mind that your cloth does not need to be thick for Micarta, in fact colored sheets of paper have been used to make micrta, and you could even go as light as rice paper to cover an object.

Do not be afraid to just set out and try something. it's easy to use and make, and it will be one of a kind.

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  Sagittarii

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Posted: September 01 2011 at 7:22pm | IP Logged Quote Sagittarii

I was thinking of the purist going the "did it myself" route.
There are plenty of ways. Other than the complicated moulding method which is really only suitable if you intend to mass produce parts.
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  Sagittarii

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Posted: September 01 2011 at 8:57pm | IP Logged Quote Sagittarii

For those who want more than one copy

"Let me introduce you to my little friend"
(from Scarface)

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Fibre+Glass+Moul ding&aq=f
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  quinnbrian

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Posted: January 09 2014 at 9:32pm | IP Logged Quote quinnbrian

Not that hard to do,if you have been in the fiberglass bussiness. But a whole different story if your new to the fiberglass game. I would probably do an outside fiberglass skin , with a foam ( 10 pound) foam core. That would make it easier to carve out the inside for barrel,action,clip...etc.

And yes ,sometime it better to start with a design (outside shape) that you like. Carved out of a soft wood and adding bondo and sanding to get just the right shape.

I made a new stock out of laminated plywood. It has a longer butt stock and shaped like a AK and a pistol grip ,that holds the trigger group and latches up inside the grip.

Lots of work,lots of fun. Have it on the gun know, works great,fits great. I plained on reproducing in fiberglass....but never got there.

Just wanted something different.

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  backbencher

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Posted: January 10 2014 at 11:08am | IP Logged Quote backbencher

Not having done fiberglass before, I thought it might be an easy way to build a thumbhole stock for an AR. Went over to The Firing Line, where they now do clay molds for their stocks, and they completely pooh-poohed my questions about overlaying fiberglass over a foam inner. I gave up, and decided to attempt my stock out of plastic bricks.

Spoke with my brother last night about the expense of epoxy I'm throwing into Effort Thumbhole, and he suggested fiberglass, and described the very same technique I had asked about. Home built aircraft wings are not built using molds - they are hand laid over foam, because the homebuilder is never going to build the same kit twice. Then they're sanded down & painted, and work fine.

If you want an exact reproduction of an object, use a clay mold. If you want a quick and dirty functional object, rough it out in foam, then cover it with fiberglass, & sand. Early homemade benchrest stocks were made by the second technique, but it seems now folks are more interested in making copies of existing designs, so they use molds.
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  quinnbrian

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Posted: January 11 2014 at 3:42pm | IP Logged Quote quinnbrian

If your going to use fiberglass over your foam core,you need to use a urethane foam. That's the stuff you can buy in spray cans, or in "pour in place" kits. It used for boat floation. Etc.Don't uses SM board or white Styrofoam, because the resins used in fiberglass will melt the foam. If your going to use apoxy over the foam, you can uses any of the above foams with no problems. Hope that helps.
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  blurrededge

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Posted: March 16 2016 at 9:35am | IP Logged Quote blurrededge

Found acouple links involving modifying fiberglass stocks, most of them are for M14's, and they tend to use a lot of bondo too (which can get heavy) but some interesting ideas

http://m14forum.com/m14/20624-bondo-stock-mods-my-way.html

http://forum.snipershide.info/showthread.php?t=234428

http://m14forum.com/m14/47166-bondo-maddness-update.html

http://m14forum.com/modern-m14/116457-home-made-lightweight- adjustable-stock.html

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  clkramer

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Posted: March 17 2016 at 8:41am | IP Logged Quote clkramer

I would really like to see a video series on making fiberglass stock. I have wanted to do this in the past but was not quite sure were or how to start.
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  Paraquat

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Posted: March 17 2016 at 11:08am | IP Logged Quote Paraquat

I need to get an M14.
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  clkramer

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Posted: March 23 2016 at 8:13pm | IP Logged Quote clkramer

No takers on writing a fiberglass stock tutorial.
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