if you had enough material around hole and used metal inserts and sleeves at trigger pin rest...maybe

great job with the build!  looks like a good functioning weapon, and even built on a budget.

a lesson i learned today: what i am calling the safety lever is actually the controller/selector for a reason.



#1 i'll call the selector rod. lever is on the left in the pic.
#2 is the pawl on rear of trigger. when trigger is pulled, pawl goes into hole 3 of which there are 2 of them.the one in the pic is the hole for the full auto selection. the other hole is on the bottom of rod right above pawl. this hole in this selection is for single shot. if either of these holes do not line up w/ pawl the trigger cannot be pulled, hence the safety. in the pic #4 is the disconnector, which in this position, the lever on rear of disconnector goes into slot allowing the disconnector sear to catch hammer when it is reset. if the lever on selector rod is set to the forward position, hole (#3) lines up w/ pawl (#2) allowing trigger to be pulled and weapon to fire but slot above disconnector lever turns 90 degrees NOT ALLOWING DISCONNECTOR SEAR TO ENGAGE THE HAMMER AS IT IS RESET BY BOLT MOVING REARWARD.THUS PUTTING IT IN THE POSITION TO POSSIBLY GO FULL AUTO. two ways to address this are #1, welding hole (#3) shut, so pawl cannot enter hole and allow weapon to fire until selector lever is pushed fully to the rear or the way i chose, to cut off rear of disconnector lever, so slot position no longer plays a part in operation of weapon. i chose this way so that selector/safety lever can be moved either way of center to be off the safe position.

 the pic below shows where i cut off lever on disconnector.



 below shows selector lever towards rear. #1 is trigger sear. #2 is disconnector sear. this pic shows trigger at rest.



 below shows lever to rear, trigger engaged. notice both sears move forward, (left).



 below shows lever to the front, which i thought would be the same as rear WRONG! you can see the disconnector is held back by selector rod holding down lever. this pic is w/ trigger at rest.



 below shows trigger engaged. w/ trigger held down there is nothing to catch hammer as it is rest.



 below shows disconnector before lever was removed w/ pawl in the back round.

last night i mixed up some jb weld and i filled in the gaps, cracks, holes etc in the lower. in part to pretty it up and also, it will be easier to see cracks that might appear in welds. i ground a slot in the middle between the fa and sa  slots for the safe position. i also welded a sling loop on rear where folding stock denier was installed.  today a sanded it down, took off the rough edges and painted it up. after it set, i baked it in oven at 400 degrees for an hour to harden.




 then i painted upper and followed previous procedure. while all that was going on, i sanded down the grip to remove as much of the larger scratches, stained and spray varnished it.

T-RIck,

When I start back to work (next week) I think I am looking for one of these kits! You made it look so easy!

Good job and tutorial!

thanks, r. good luck w/ the work.

Hi trickyrick,

I just finished rewelding my skorpion receiver and it looks very good! It shot single shot very well. I have one question for my next skorpion kit though. How do you avoid the metal shrinkage after you weld? I keep holding everything in place and they shrink a hell lot. So I ended up losing about 1/32 of an inch of the entire length. I hate to do that because now everything is a bit more icky.

Also the part of the receiver that holds the retainer spring for the fixing plate. I just cant get that right. (the spot right next to the trigger group)Right now my fixing plate is just hanging with no support lol. Both the retainer springs are missing because I cant find a solution for it How did u do yours?